BMW e34 Making Sense of Synthetic Lubricants

	This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series. The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection. See The Official Book Website for more details. The book is due out in October 2005.
		All of us have seen countless ads telling us to change our engine oil every 3000 miles. Some of us have watched the infomercials showing cars driving on the racetrack with allegedly no oil or engines running on a stand while the host pours sand and gravel over an exposed valve train. Virtually all of the lube shops have some kind of magic additive that they will say you need. What are we to believe? Or more relevant, what is right for you? In becoming an Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants dealer in 1998 I have done a great deal of research on all kinds of lubricants and additives and in this article I will share the facts about synthetic oils, petroleum based oils, and additives so that you can make an informed decision about what is right for your cars. Oil Classifications. There are two systems for oil classification. The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity grade and the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification that designates the type of engines for which the oil was designed. The SAE viscosity grade is known as the “W” number when classifying oils. Most oils on the shelf today are multi-viscosity such as 10W30 or 20W50. In general, the lower the first number, the better the oil will perform in extremely cold conditions. Conversely, the higher the second number the better the oil will protect at higher temperatures. If you were driving to Minnesota in the winter you would want the lowest number you could find like a 0W30. In our Florida climate however, a 10W40 or a 20W50 would be a better choice. The API designation is typically an “S” designation for gasoline engines and a “C” designation for diesel engines. Most of today’s oils carry an SH,CF or SJ,CF designation signifying that they are suitable for use in all gasoline or diesel automotive applications. Those of you with diesel trucks or motor homes should look for an API CG-4 rated oil. Which brand you buy is largely a matter of preference. Consumer Reports (6/97) found very few differences between major brands of oil and all with the above SAE and API designations performed fine in normal applications. Synthetic vs. Petroleum based oils. Synthetic oils were originally developed more than 50 years ago and became widely used in jet engines. Less than -120єF ambient temperatures, 60000 shaft rpm, and 500є+F exhaust temperatures proved too much for conventional oils. Synthetics were created specifically to withstand these harsh conditions and to date every jet engine in the world uses synthetic lubricants. Amsoil introduced the first synthetic oil for automotive use in 1972 and have continued to be at the leading edge of development ever since. Mobil 1, undoubtedly the most recognized name in synthetics, was introduced in 1976. Many companies have jumped on the bandwagon and have since released synthetic lubricants for automotive use and all are becoming increasingly popular for their superior lubricating properties, superior ability to flow at cold temperatures, and their ability to withstand high temperatures for extended periods of time. Several new cars including the Porsche 996 and the Chevrolet Corvette LT-1 are delivered with synthetic oil in the crankcase and require synthetic oil use throughout the life of the car. There are two primary differences between synthetic oils and conventional petroleum oils. These are the base stock or liquid that makes up the volume of the oil, and the additive package. There are additives (not to be confused with over the counter additives which will be discussed later) in all oils that enhance the wear resistance properties of the oil, enhance the ability of the oil to neutralize acids and combustion by products, and provide corrosion protection for the engine’s internal surfaces. The amount and quality of these additives vary from one oil brand to another and this is a very significant factor in the ability of an oil to adequately protect your engine in all driving conditions. As a general rule of thumb, the cheaper the oil, the fewer additives it has and therefore, the less able it is to protect your engine. There is one school of thought that suggests that the only difference in synthetic oils vs. petroleum oils is that the synthetics typically have a better additive package. This statement is only partially true. Synthetics almost always do have superior additives than petroleum oils. While this does add to the cost of the oil, it also enables the oil to last 3-5 times longer than conventional oil. The synthetic base stock however, is of paramount importance in the ability of a synthetic oil to flow at cold temperatures and withstand greater amounts of heat over significantly longer periods of time. Petroleum base stock molecules are long carbon chains that are sensitive to stress and heat. Additionally, various paraffins that are contained in all petroleum products regardless of how well refined they are, cause oil to jell like a syrup at extremely cold temperatures. At the other end of the temperature spectrum, high engine temperatures and heavy loads (as typically found in towing or racetrack applications) cause these chains to break down and the base stock actually boils off causing a change of viscosity and the formulation of sludge. This can happen at temperatures as low as 230є F and by 250є F many petroleum oils are suffering significant breakdown. Synthetic oils on the other hand are engineered specifically to provide all the lubricating properties that natural oil possesses, but none of the cold thickening or hot thinning properties of petroleum oil. Synthetics are made up of uniformly shaped molecules with shorter carbon chains which are much more resistant to heat and stress. Synthetics can withstand temperatures of 300єF all day long and still protect your engine. In fact the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) standard wear resistance tests are conducted at 302є F. In this test synthetic lubricants far out perform petroleum lubricants by factor of four to one and greater. Oil temperatures of 230єF to 250єF are not at all uncommon in driver’s education track conditions, particularly in early 911s with no front coolers or the marginally effective “trombone” oil coolers. These temperatures are also fairly common in air-cooled engines in summer time stop and go traffic with the A/C on. Further, temperatures on the cylinder walls and in turbos are often over 450°F for short periods of time. Liquid cooled cars can also have extremely high oil temperatures even though the water temperature may be normal. I observed this first hand several years ago in a race car where the water temperature stayed right on 210єF while the oil temperature fluctuated between 240є F and as high as 280є F depending on how hard the car was driven. Needless to say, this particular car was running synthetic oil and remarkably ran about 50 hrs. between rebuilds with no significant wear. Further, Winston Cup star Rusty Wallace was recently quoted after the 2000 twin 125 races in Daytona that his car was running a little hot with water temperature at 230° and oil temperature at 260°F. Rusty’s team is sponsored by Mobil 1 and I would think it is safe to say that they use the product. The point of the above paragraphs is quite simply that synthetic oils have a much wider operating temperature range, by design, than petroleum oils. Off The Shelf Additives There are countless over the counter oil additives on the market, as there have been for a number of years. In recent years a number of companies have appeared on the scene with huge national television advertising campaigns, racecar sponsorship, and more, all designed to make the consumer believe that the products really work and you are doing yourself a favor by adding these to your car. The fact is that these products are not necessary, do very little to help your engine, and in many cases may actually do more harm than good. The major car companies do not endorse any of these products and in fact your owner’s manual will undoubtedly advise you to avoid them. Consumers Reports did a test (10/98) in an attempt to verify, or rebuke, one company’s ad which claimed that their product “bonded” to the engines moving parts forming a protective barrier against wear. The ad claimed that their test car ran without any oil all over Southern California, in stop and go traffic, with the air on, for 4 hours and 40 minutes. The ad also claimed that the only reason the driver stopped was to get something to eat. Pretty unbelievable. In an attempt to prove or disprove the viability of the ad, Consumer Reports tested two Chevrolet Caprices, both with identical zero time rebuilt V6 engines. Both cars were broken in with normal petroleum oil per the manufacturer’s recommendations. The oil and filter were then changed with one of the cars receiving the prescribed dose of this magic additive. Both cars were then driven for about 100 miles, allegedly long enough for this magical bonding to occur, and the oil subsequently drained. Both were then driven again, now with empty crankcases, in normal traffic to see how long they would last. Interestingly both engines failed, almost simultaneously, after about 14 minutes of driving thus proving the claims of the additive manufacturer to be nonsense. Consumer Reports notified the FTC of the test and their results and the manufacturer was subsequently forced to stop running the ad. There are some over the counter additives that contain Teflon or PTFE. Once again the ads claim that the Teflon bonds to the internal working parts of the engine forming a slippery surface (like your Teflon frying pan) and therefore reducing wear. Fundamental laws of Physics prove that such claims are impossible, as the temperatures in internal combustion engines (200є-250єF) are insufficient for any bonding to occur. Further, independent oil analysis labs have observed that the suspended Teflon particles actually tend to accumulate the microscopic metals that are normal in engine oil formulating much larger, and potentially much more harmful, deposits in engines than would normally occur if straight motor oil had been used. In some cases, the oil filters became clogged, oil pressures dropped across the filter and oil analysis showed significantly more wear than oil alone. Similar to the previous situation, the FTC challenged the makers of products with PTFE on their claims of “coating of PTFE” and “reduced engine wear” based again on Consumer Reports findings of “no discernible benefits” from use of the product. The makers of these products agreed with the FTC in a settlement to stop using the above phrases in their ads. Economics of Synthetics vs. Petroleum Lubricants All of the manufacturers of synthetic oil tout the benefits of reduced wear, more horsepower, lower operating temperatures, and improved fuel mileage. All of these benefits are derivatives of better cold flow characteristics and higher levels of friction reducing additives that are found in synthetic oils. I can confirm better cold driving characteristics, increased fuel mileage of nearly 10%, noticeably lower operating temperatures, better heat dissipation capability, and long term high temperature stability based on my own experience with synthetic lubricants. Are these benefits enough, however, to persuade average drivers to give up their trusted petroleum oils and pay the extra price for synthetics? Enthusiasts, yes. Average drivers, perhaps not. However, synthetic lubricants can endure extended drain intervals, which is a major consideration toward justification of the higher costs. This benefit is not widely promoted by the major oil producers most likely because they want you to pay a premium for their synthetic oils every 3000 miles just like their regular oils. Most companies don’t bother to tell you that synthetic oils are capable of going 25,000 miles or more without significant breakdown. One customer told me he drove his Toyota more than 50000 miles (with filter changes every 10000 miles) before oil analysis results told him it was time for a change. It is not uncommon for over the road truckers to go several hundred thousand miles between synthetic oil changes. The short trips and stop and go city driving that most of do is much tougher on motor oil than over the road highway driving. In fact, frequent short trips (2 miles or less) and stop and go city driving is considered by some raters as extreme and our cars need increased protection. Fortunately, we can achieve the superior protection and the economic benefits of synthetic oils while staying within the recommendations of our car manufacturers. Consider the following economic argument. If you change your oil every 3000 miles at a quick lube center at an average price of $23.00 per change, you spend $115.00 over 15000 miles. Most synthetic oil changes cost about $50.00 (much less if you do it yourself) on which you can drive 7500 miles very safely (a 7500 mile interval is within virtually all manufacturers recommendations). Over the same 15000 miles, only two oil changes are required for an investment of $100.00. A shop could charge up to $57.50 and it is still a break-even proposition, plus you put a superior product in your car and are receiving the additional benefits that synthetic lubricants can provide. I typically drive about 12000 miles between changes with a filter change and oil analysis at 6000. Even after 12000 miles oil analysis advises that the oil is “suitable for continued use” and typically the wear metals are less than conventional oil after 3000 miles. In fact in a test performed by Popular Mechanics some years ago, oil analysis showed in New York City taxicabs that there is typically less oil breakdown and less wear metals in Amsoil 10W40 synthetic oil after 60000 miles (albeit with filter changes every 6000 miles) vs. conventional 10W40 oil after 3000 miles. As an added benefit, less waste oil is being put back into the environment. A true win-win proposition. Conclusion Most major brand name petroleum oils perform adequately provided your driving conditions are normal and provided you change the oil regularly (remember, short city trips, driver’s ed track events, dusty conditions, and towing are considered extreme). Over the counter additives have been proven to be of little to no benefit, often do more harm than good, and are a waste of money regardless of what you drive and how you drive it. Finally, for those of you who drive your vehicle hard, tow a trailer, drive very short distances, sit idling and in stop & go traffic for long periods, live in a cold climate and/or if your car runs hot, quality synthetic motor oil, synthetic gear lube, and synthetic automatic transmission fluid is a wise investment that will provide the additional protection you require as well as last thousands of miles longer than conventional lubricants.

BMW e34 More than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil

	This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series. The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection. See The Official Book Website for more details. The book is due out in October 2005.
		Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype. Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base. This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc. Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm. The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use. The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown. _______________________________________________________________ | | | SAE Gear Viscosity Number | | ________________________________________________________ | | |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | | | |____|_____|___|______________|________________________| | | | | SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number | | ____________________________ | | |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | | | |__|_____|____|_____|______| | ______________________________________________________________ 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content. % zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling. The Data: Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc 20W-50 Amsoil 136 482 -38 <.5 --- Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12 Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11 Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 --- Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16 Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 --- Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 --- Red Line 150 503 -49 --- --- Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15 Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- 1.5 Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13 Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12 Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13 Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20 Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12 20W-40 Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12 Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 --- 15W-50 Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11 Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- --- Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15 Red Line 152 503 -49 --- --- 5W-50 Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10 - .095 % Phosphor Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- --- Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- --- 5W-40 Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 --- 15W-40 AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 --- Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14 Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 --- Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11.9 .9 .14 Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13 Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16 Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15 Red Line 149 495 -40 --- --- Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13 Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15 Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13 10W-30 AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 --- Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12 Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11 Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11 Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13 Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 --- Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16 Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- --- Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 --- Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 --- Red Line 139 475 -40 --- --- Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12 Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13 Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15 Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- --- Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12 Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13 Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20 Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12 5W-30 AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 --- Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12 Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11 Chevron Supreme Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12 Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11 Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 --- Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- --- Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1 Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 --- Red Line 151 455 -49 --- --- Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12 Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12 Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13 Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 <1.5 .12 All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake. The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application. The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics. Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification. The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.

BMW e34 Welding Review

This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series. The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection. See The Official Book Website for more details. The book is due out in October 2005.
		I’ve received many questions about the process, procedures and techniques regarding MIG welding over the recent past. This is written for those brave enough to even consider welding their prized possession – their 914. While welding at first appears to be a “black art”, in reality, it is a practiced talent – and a "talent" which is relatively easy to learn and practice on a regular basis. First, I have to add a disclaimer: Use what I write here at your own risk and responsibility. Unfortunately, people occasionally make mistakes (it’s part of the learning process), but I can't assume risk for their errors, nor can I assume risk for my mis-communications. If you agree, then read on! If not, well, just ignore this post! My personal philosophy in authoring this post is to encourage others to try things that other people do. Welding is one of those “things”. It is not hard “thing” to learn. – it just takes a basic understanding of the proper procedures and a little practice. Step 1: Safety But “first things first” as they say. The FIRST, and most important “thing”, is to be safe: - Make certain that anything in the area around you that could possibly ignite is removed entirely from that area. “Welding” means heat, sparks and more sparks. Things that could burn, will burn. And yes, that includes your clothing and skin, if you’re not careful! You must wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants without cuffs (non-flammable, like cotton) and leather welding gloves. - A good eye shield or welding hood must be used. Get a fire extinguisher and always have it nearby for immediate use in that event it is necessary. NEVER MIG or ARC weld where water will be in contact with you or the surfaces you are welding. This will electrocute you - welding YOU rather then METAL! Use proper ventilation, as the fumes are harmful if welding in an un-vented area. I usually leave the garage door open when welding and then take a break away from the area till they expelled. Disconnect any and all major electrical components from the car, like the battery, the alternator, etc. before attaching the welder. If you weld with these attached, you might destroy them. I’ve received many questions about the process, procedures and techniques regarding MIG welding over the recent past. This is written for those brave enough to even consider welding their prized possession – their 914. While welding at first appears to be a “black art”, in reality, it is a practiced talent – and a "talent" which is relatively easy to learn and practice on a regular basis. First, I have to add a disclaimer: Use what I write here at your own risk and responsibility. Unfortunately, people occasionally make mistakes (it’s part of the learning process), but I can't assume risk for their errors, nor can I assume risk for my mis-communications. If you agree, then read on! If not, well, just ignore this post! My personal philosophy in authoring this post is to encourage others to try things that other people do. Welding is one of those “things”. It is not hard “thing” to learn. – it just takes a basic understanding of the proper procedures and a little practice. Step 1: Safety But “first things first” as they say. The FIRST, and most important “thing”, is to be safe: - Make certain that anything in the area around you that could possibly ignite is removed entirely from that area. “Welding” means heat, sparks and more sparks. Things that could burn, will burn. And yes, that includes your clothing and skin, if you’re not careful! You must wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants without cuffs (non-flammable, like cotton) and leather welding gloves. - A good eye shield or welding hood must be used. Get a fire extinguisher and always have it nearby for immediate use in that event it is necessary. NEVER MIG or ARC weld where water will be in contact with you or the surfaces you are welding. This will electrocute you - welding YOU rather then METAL! Use proper ventilation, as the fumes are harmful if welding in an un-vented area. I usually leave the garage door open when welding and then take a break away from the area till they expelled. Disconnect any and all major electrical components from the car, like the battery, the alternator, etc. before attaching the welder. If you weld with these attached, you might destroy them. OK. So we have the safety bases covered (i.e. you won’t burn up, your car won’t ignite, your garage will be intact after you start welding – and you'll have a fire extinguisher handy in case they do :-) Step 2 – Getting Ready to Practice When you are ready to start, practice welding on some scrap metal that is close to the thickness of the body part you are going to repair. This is usually 20 or 22 gauge “stock material” which is available at auto body parts stores, auto recyclers and metal scrap yards. It is cheap. Buy a lot of it. Then buy some more. This practice is essential and will show up in your final effort. NEVER - and I mean NEVER - practice on what you intend to repair. Practice materials are cheap – your car is not (nor is paying someone else to fix it!). And, by the way, practicing on cheap stock is kind of fun without the fear of hurting anything. Step 3 – The Welding System A MIG welder has 2 cables. One of them is the ground. It looks like an alligator toothed clamp – like car “jumper cables”. This lead must be attached either to the metal you intend to weld, or near the piece you are welding for proper grounding. MIG welders work on current flow, so don’t attach the ground at one end of the car and try to weld at the other end. The current would have to pass the entire length of the car – impeding the “arc” (more on this later). The most important point here is not begin welding without this cable attached near the point of welding. The other lead from the MIG welder is the “business end” that has the electrode and it’s handle with the “welder on” and wire feed button (also, the tip will have a gas outlet if your MIG uses tanks). When you press the button, wire (and gas, with a MIG with tanks) will be fed from a spool in the machine through the feed line and to the handle you hold in your hand and, as importantly - electricity will flow from that electrode. Don’t touch it when the button is on! Just a short note about the different types of MIG systems – “gas” and “gas-less”. A MIG with a tank attachment will force CO2/Argon into the arc as the weld is being created. This gas help keep the air surrounding the weld uniform – creating a better weld in the process. The second system (“gas-less”) uses a shielded wire electrode. The outer coating of this shielded wire creates its own gas as it burns in much the same way a tank provides a gas source. Either system is fine for light body work! Step 4 – Preparing the Surface Electricity is a funny thing – it travels through clean metal best. It doesn’t like rust, oil, grease or other contaminants. Therefore, preparing the surfaces to weld is as important as the weld itself. To prepare the surfaces, cut out all the rust and use a wire brush to clean all the surfaces to be welded so that they are bright and shiny. If parts need to be primed, 3M makes a product called “weld-through primer” which will conduct the electrical current while providing protection to the bare metal. Follow the directions on the label and your finished welds will look professional from the start. Step 5 – Your First Weld OK, so get on the proper attire, get your gloves, get your eye protection handy. Ready? Let’s go: First, the procedure is pretty simple - when you press the switch on the handle, you will strike an “arc” (an electrical contact) between the metal and the electrode protruding from your welding). To start this arc (kinda like lighting a match) hold the electrode about 1/8" from the metal surface to be welded. Once the arc is lit, a lot of stuff happens pretty quickly – the metal gets really hot (molten), new metal is fed from the electrode, and a “puddle” forms on the work pieces. This puddle is molten steel and is actually your weld. In reality, when you weld, you are joining metals within this “puddle” and you’re your welding talent is gauged by your ability to control that puddle. Really, its that simple (or that difficult, depending on your level of optimism at the moment…) So go ahead - try it. By the way, at precisely the moment you strike the arc, the hooded shield that protects your eyes must be pulled into place – or you won’t see a thing. The bright light will hurt your eyes (not a good thing as you will see “stars” for days or worse, could cause more permanent eye damage.). You might want to practice just pulling the hood into place when you touch the metal without power on until you feel your eyes will be safe from the light. Again, this is imperative for eye protection. Practice doing this until you feel comfortable that it is done correctly. Another option is to hold the electrode in place, pull on the hood, and then start the arc. Either is fine as long as your eyes are covered when you begin to weld. (BTW: You will see everything as you weld even though you can’t see through the shield under natural light. The welding process is REALLY bright. And before raising the shield, make certain that you move the tip away from the grounded metal to stop welding.) Step 6 – Techniques and Welds Types My specific technique is to weld in short welds. Generally about 1/8" spots. Start by doing one in the middle of the entire length. Next tack each end. Then eyeball a spot midway between the middle spot weld and the end. Do the other direction likewise. This is called stitching. It maintains the straightness of what you are welding. Do this until you have a line of spots from one end to the other. Don't concentrate too much heat in one spot is the idea. Let the entire work piece cool after stiching. (I drink a coke or whatever and come back and inspect of what I have done during the previous session - typically, I consume a case of the stuff on really big jobs :-). Spot or Tack Welding: To create a tack, hold the electrode in an area for no more than 2 or 3 seconds. Hold tip in one spot about 1/8" above the metal. Too long will burn a hole in metal. Proceed to next position for the next tack or spot, on and on. Spot and tack welding can be done on a seam or though holes made in the overlaid stock to be attached. Creating A Seam or Butt Weld: When you are doing long seams, your hand motion will be in small oval movements. These movements are like small circular motions away from you one side on the work piece and toward you on the other. Remember that you are actually moving a molten puddle of metal along a predetermined path. Think of it a “fanning or pulling a drop of water” – it’s pretty much the same principle. Keep repeating this motion into the joining metals about 1/8" to 3/16" from the top of previous circular always working toward your standing position. Never do this type weld without tacking the entire length with spots no more than 6" apart maximum. Here is the best diagram I can draw in e-mail: you handle = + positive lead _______\__________ <-----direction of welding motion metal = -- ground lead BTW: A solid weld along the seam is not always necessary. Use what you see on the part that you are going to be repairing on the 914 to be a practical guide on which weld type to use. And remember, heat will distort metal. Too much is worse than too little. It will also weaken the metal. Dwelling too long at one point will burn a hole that will have to be welded later to accomplish good appearing work as you will want your 914 to have. Summary - a short version of the procedures Put gloves on. Clamp metal to be welded with c-clamps to retain their movement. Clamp the ground to the metal. Set the amperage switch on the welder to proper amps. Should be instructions that came with your welding system. Turn on welding machine. Have shield on and comfortable fit. Stand or sit where you see the 2 pieces of metal you will join by welding are directly in front of you and be prepared to pull shield over your eyes at the precise moment of contact. Now, position the handle with tip about 1/8" from the surface of the metal and along the joining edges of the 2 pieces of metal, pull shield down quickly with one hand while pressing the switch on the handle with the hand that holds it. Bright glow on contact begins the welding process. Extremely HOT. Never touch what you are welding with bare hands. It will burn your hand and if like me, cause you to swear. Work slowly and never get in a hurry. Speed will come with experience. You should keep this 1/8" gap between the metal and the tip constant and move the tip in a direction toward you along the gap and maintain about a 15 or 20 degree angle of the handle in relation to the working surfaces. You can do it. Practice, practice, practice. And Have FUN with it! Wishing you success. Mike Cooley This technical article is made possible solely through the support of Pelican Parts. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.

BMW e34 Heater valve

	Cost: $50 used $140 new Difficulty: Time: 1 hour
Procedure and pictures courtesy of Scott E.
Bmw E34 and E32 have a funny tendency to loose the heat in the middle of winter... If this happens to you time to check the heater valve. Failure syndromes: • Heater only works when drivers dial is all the way to the right (Max. setting) Other settings only produce unheated air from vents. Problem: Heater valves stuck.
Procedure
1. Open hood 2. Remove plastic cover to heater valves (located next to fuse box on firewall) 3. Loosen all six screws on solenoid valve. 4. Tap on both solenoid valves with hammer while an assistant turns the drivers side temperature dial back and forth. 5. You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking now. 6. Tighten all six screws and replace plastic cover. 7. If this doesn’t work you may need to remove and clean the valves or perhaps replace them. 8. If this doesn't work, change the heater valve and the auxiliary pump. This is an easy task, you need to remove the 4 bolts on top of the heater valve, disconnect the wires and then pull the valve out. You don't need to remove the auxiliary pump as they will be both pulled out together. Use needle noise vice grips to pinch the hoses if you don't want to loose all your coolant. This is a tight spot to remove the valve but it will come out.

BMW e34 Speed sensor

	Cost: $50 Difficulty:
The Speed sensor on the BMW E34 is located at the back of the differential housing in an inaccessible location... follow the only wire. You will find a lot of dirt and grease over there, so be prepared and wear protective glasses and gloves. Failure syndromes: • Erratic or no speedometer, erratic or no speed control, erratic wipers functioning.
Procedure Step by step procedure
Protective glasses WD 40, the screws might be rusted 3/8" Ratchet, extensions and u-joints 10 mm socket and open wrench 1. Place the rear of the car on jacks or use a ramp, then spray the old sensor two screws with WD40. Now that you have found where the screws are... you know that removing them is going to be tricky. If you are not a patient person, grab your phone and call the dealer... 2. After approximately 1 hour, you have removed the screws. Try to clean your sensor, it might work again (it didn't work for me). If cleaning it does not work, just change the sensor. 3. Tighten the screw with a 10mm open wrench then finish with the ratchet and extensions. Best advice : Be patient... Addition from: Bob K. The hard part is getting to the bottom screw, IMO. Having a heckuva time getting it started after removal, I decided to do the following: . support the differential with a hydraulic jack . remove the two bolts (19mm head) holding the rear of the diff to the suspension member . drop the diff about an inch or less The issue is ensuring that the diff is supported. What dropping the diff does is give enough room to get a direct angle on the bolt, both for removal and replacement. A caveat is to do the removal and replacement of the top bolt before and after the diff drop, respectively. Also, I found that my 3/8" drive sockets were a tad thick for the available clearance. I used 1/4" hardware with a 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor. Regardless, it certainly is a job that requires patience. Addition from Ivan C. Thought you might want to know, I replaced my speed sensor and while it was time consuming, it was really not too difficult. Most of the time was de-greasing and cleaning area first. I used 1/4" vs 3/8" tools: 10mm open wrench, 1/4" 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet with 3" and 5" extensions and "u" joint. and had no problem reaching lower and upper bolts as follows: Upper bolt: Socket drive to 5" extension to U joint to 3" extension with 10mm socket: between gas tank shield and suspension / diff Lower bolt: Socket drive to 3" extension to U joint with 10mm socket: between suspension and diff