BMW planet

2008 BMW M3 Sedan part 3

2007-11-22T16:46:00.005-08:00

The M3's leather steering wheel, with its thumb contours resting firmly in the driver's hands, provides an optimum grip for precise movement of the steering wheel. The spokes within the steering wheel incorporate the remote control buttons for the audio system and mobile phone, as well as the optional MDrive button. An additional auxiliary button may be programmed through the optional BMW iDrive system.

As an option, both the front seats are available with backrest-width adjustment, while the rear seats may be equipped with folding seatbacks which provides the 15.8 cubic foot luggage compartment even greater capacity.

A premium AM/FM/single-disc CD audio system comes standard with an auxiliary input jack. Individual entertainment options include SIRIUS satellite radio, HD radio and a USB-enabled port for control of an Apple iPod or iPhone media player. These three options can be bundled together in the Technology Package, should one choose to have them all together.

For vehicles equipped with Navigation, the comprehensive information and entertainment systems are controlled by the refined BMW iDrive. Selecting the Navigation/iDrive option also brings the performance-oriented, steering-wheel-spoke-mounted Mdrive button.

Safety begins with the body structure and continues inside

Occupant safety begins with the design of the new BMW M3's body structure. Together with defined deformation zones, the use of high-strength steel ensures smooth and direct transmission of forces in a collision and optimum absorption of loads acting on the car. The space available for deformation is also used to avoid any damage to the passenger cell and keep damage to the body itself to a minimum, even in a severe collision.

The electronic restraint systems are tailored to the ultra-strong structure of the body. Six airbags as well as the belt latch tensioners and belt force limiters are activated by the car's central safety electronics as a function of the type and severity of a collision. Sensors located in the center of the car within the B-pillars and in the doors "tell" the safety electronics which component will offer the occupants optimum protection, with the "proper" restraint systems being activated in the event of a collision.

The driver and front passenger are protected by frontal and side airbags housed in the seat backrests. These four airbags are activated in two stages, depending on the severity of the impact. Through its size alone, the curtain head airbag protects the car's occupants on both the front and the outer rear seats. And the risk of leg injury in a head-on collision, finally, is reduced on the driver's side by defined deformation of the footrest.

BMW Ultimate ServiceTM: Providing owners with incredible value and peace of mind

The BMW 1 Series Convertible will feature BMW Ultimate ServiceTM, a suite of services that includes the BMW Maintenance Program (formerly called Full Maintenance), Roadside Assistance and the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. BMW AssistTM with TeleService is part of the optional Premium Package or can be ordered separately as a stand-along option.

BMW Ultimate ServiceTM includes:

The BMW Maintenance Program is the only no-cost maintenance program in the industry that covers wear and tear items like brake pads and rotors for four years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. BMW owners pay nothing for all scheduled inspections, oil changes, brake pads, wiper blade inserts and other wear-and-tear items.

BMW Roadside Assistance is one of the industry's most comprehensive plans available. Not only is it no-charge for the first four years, but there is no mileage limit. BMW drivers enjoy the assurance of on-the-road help 24 hours a day, seven days a week, anywhere in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico. This includes everything from flat tire changes, emergency gasoline and lock-out assistance, to towing, alternative transportation and even trip-interruption benefits. This service also includes valuable trip routing advice.

BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty: All 2008 BMW passenger vehicles are covered by BMW's excellent Limited Warranty, which includes:

• New-vehicle warranty - four-year/50,000-mile coverage of the vehicle.
• Rust-perforation warranty - 12-year/unlimited-mileage coverage.

BMW AssistTM provides the driver with services that enhance on-the-road security and convenience, for added peace of mind. It is a part of the optional Premium package and can also be ordered separately as a stand-alone option. BMW is the only vehicle manufacturer that offers this service for four years at no additional cost. Most other manufacturers cover only the first year of service.

The in-vehicle equipment for BMW AssistTM includes GPS technology and hands-free communication functions accessed via buttons in the overhead or center console. Vehicle occupants may request emergency or other services simply by pressing a button; the BMW AssistTM system then transmits the location and vehicle information to the BMW AssistTM response center. A response specialist will then speak with the occupants to coordinate dispatch, notify emergency contacts on file, and link BMW Roadside Assistance or emergency services as needed and requested. A severe accident automatically activates the BMW AssistTM call as well. The BMW AssistTM Safety Plan also includes Remote Door Unlock and Stolen Vehicle Recovery services, which can save the owner time and money.

TeleService automatically notifies the BMW center when a vehicle will need service. This feature allows the Service Advisor to proactively set up a customer appointment and have the needed parts ready.

BMW AssistTM subscribers can also enroll in the BMW AssistTM Convenience Plan (available at an additional cost of $199 per year) to avail themselves to many BMW AssistTM Concierge services, from travel planning to dining reservations, shopping assistance and event tickets, as well as receive directions, and traffic and weather information. A selected destination and its phone number can be sent directly to the on-board navigation system and Bluetooth®-linked mobile phone, after a push of the new Concierge button. The Convenience Plan also includes Critical Calling, a new service that connects the driver in case their mobile phone is not in the vehicle or its battery is discharged. After pushing the SOS button, a BMW AssistTM response specialist will link the driver to his requested party for up to five minutes and for up to four events per year.

As before, the BMW AssistTM system includes Bluetooth® hands-free phone connectivity with hands-free phonebook access and dialing by name or number via the steering wheel controls. Use of this feature requires a customer-provided compatible Bluetooth® mobile phone.

Performance with a conscience

BMW strives to produce its motor vehicles and other products with the utmost attention to environmental compatibility and protection. Integrated into the design and development of BMW automobiles are such criteria as resource efficiency and emission control in production; environmentally responsible selection of materials; recyclability during production and within the vehicle; elimination of CFCs and hazardous materials in production; and continuing research into environmentally friendly automotive power sources. Tangible results of these efforts include the recycling of bumper cladding into other vehicle components; water-based paint color coats and powder clear coats; near-future availability of hydrogen-powered models; and various design and engineering elements that help make BMWs easier to dismantle at the end of their service life.

2008 BMW M3 Sedan part 2

2007-11-22T16:46:00.003-08:00

Servotronic steering with two manually adjustable control maps

Rear-wheel drive keeps the rack-and-pinion steering of the BMW M3 Sedan free of drive forces. A further enhancement is hydraulic Servotronic power assistance controlling steering forces as a function of road speed. There is also a choice of two different control maps activated through normal and sport modes with a console-mounted button.

In Sport mode the BMW M3 provides direct and immediate response with a relatively high steering effort. In the Normal mode, power assistance is comfort-oriented and requires less steering effort.

Latest-generation of Dynamic Stability Control

The electronic Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) monitors driving conditions and intervenes through the application of brakes and reduced engine power to stabilize the BMW M3 and help avoid major over- or under-steer situations.

In addition to engine controls and the ABS, other systems integrated in the DSC are Automatic Stability Control (ASC), which prevents the wheels from spinning on surfaces with reduced traction; the Start-Off Assistant, which prevents the car from rolling back when setting off on a grade, as well as Cornering Brake Control (CBC), which prevents the car from spinning or swerving out of control when applying the brakes in a bend.

The latest version of DSC includes additional functions for even greater driving safety. Whenever the driver is likely to apply the brakes in full within the next few seconds, the system builds up pressure in the hydraulic brake circuit and pre-loads the brake pads to ensure an immediate response. The Dry Braking feature removes water film from the discs in wet conditions, thus reducing the chance of water interfering with the braking process.

Electronic Damper Control recognizing the driver's style of motoring

The optional Electronic Damper Control (EDC) allows the driver to tailor the vehicle's chassis dynamics to his or her preference through one of three modes: Sport, Normal and Comfort. The response of all dynamic driving systems is carefully tailored to the power and performance of the new BMW M3, with electronic intervention of the various systems naturally taking the dynamics of the car into account. Indeed, the driver even has the option to individually configure specific parameters, thus adjusting the response of the car to his personal preferences.

MDrive personalizes the driving characteristics of the new BMW M3

The new M3 provides several standard and optional driver-controlled systems to tailor the driving characteristics to a driver's personal preferences. The driver can choose, with conveniently located buttons:

• DSC on or off (for a very competent, performance-oriented driver)
• EDC in Sport, Normal or Comfort modes
• Servotronic in Sport or Comfort modes
• Throttle response either direct/sporting or comfort oriented

A push of the MDrive button on the steering wheel can instantaneously activate the above driver-selectable configurations, turning the new BMW M3 into his or her personalized Ultimate Driving Machine. The settings are stored through menus shown on the dash-mounted screen and controlled by the iDrive (located in the center console). Storing one's overall preferences under the MDrive allows the driver to modify any of the adjustable settings, yet return to his or her optimum with a simple press of the MDrive button. This feature requires the Navigation/iDrive option.

Athletic, sporting stance separates new BMW M3 Sedan from the pack

Front to back, the design of the new BMW M3 Sedan evokes a purposeful, sporting message. The front end, though clearly a BMW based on the double-kidney shaped grill, flat headlight units with standard Xenon headlamps, boasts three large air intakes below the grill. Since the structure and configuration is determined to primarily feed air into the engine compartment, the BMW M3 Sedan, like BMW M cars in general, intentionally forgoes fog lamps featured on 3 Series models.

The "face" of the new BMW M3 also includes a power dome in the middle of the aluminum hood which, though longer than that of the 3 Series Sedan, blends harmoniously with the overall design.

The two front side panels boast a special sign of distinction characteristic of a BMW M Car and referred to by the designers as "gills," which incorporate the tri-color (blue/purple/red M3) logo. Rear-view mirrors developed for the new BMW M3 fulfill an important aerodynamic function helping reduce air resistance. Further down the side-line, the pronounced side-sills, give the BMW M3 a light and sporting look.

The new BMW M3 Sedan looks muscular from behind, its design taking up the particular look of the car's front end. A discreet lip spoiler on the trunklid optimizes the car's streamlining and reduces lift on the rear axle. In its contours, the split diffuser beneath the rear bumper takes up the shape of the air intakes at the front of the car as the air guide and the dual tailpipes move towards the centerline of the car, visually contracting the rear end at the lower center point. A further feature is the circular shape of the four straight tailpipes in typical BMW M style.

The four metallic paints reserved for BMW M cars (Melbourne Red, Jerez Black, Interlagos Blue and Silverstone) highlight the body, contours and proportions of the four-door with particular intensity. In addition to these unique hues, the BMW M3 is available in Alpine White, Jet Black, or Sparkling Graphite Metallic.

Interior design oriented an active driving experience with luxury

The interior of the BMW M3 has always been a place designed for performance driving, but without compromising the comfort of the driver and the passengers. The new BMW M3 Sedan continues this tradition with the latest innovations. The five seats are surrounded by powerful contours and flowing lines highlighting in particular the concave and convex surfaces. The horizontal lines dominating the area around the dashboard as well as the harmonious surfaces of the side linings give the interior a dynamic note.

The cockpit control area tapers out between the front seats into a newly designed center console which discreetly "swings" towards the driver. Finished in black leather, the console harmoniously continues the instrument surrounds and the control area in terms of both color and shape, comprising three function switches (Power, DSC, and optional EDC) for activating and deactivating the electronic driving programs on the side facing the driver.

Apart from the clear design and optimum ergonomic arrangement of all controls and instruments, the choice of colors inside the new BMW M3 Sedan helps the driver concentrate on driving. Regardless of the upholstery and trim color, the footwells, parcel shelf, headliner, A-pillar trim and the upper part of the instrument panel are all finished in Anthracite. This uniform, dark color scheme around the windshield helps the driver focus on driving.

There is no question as to the heritage of the vehicle upon opening the door of the new BMW M3 thanks to the M car logo in the door sills. The unique nature of the vehicle carries to the dash where the dual circular instruments typical of BMW - the speedometer and fuel gauge as well as the tachometer and oil temperature display - are in specific M style. A feature typical of BMW M cars is the variable warning zone on the tachometer that informs the driver of the recommended engine speed depending on the engine oil temperature. The borderline between the yellow pre-warning zone and the red warning zone moves up as a function of increasing oil temperature to the maximum limit of 8,400 rpm. The digital displays presenting the time, the outside temperature and odometer, as well as the various warning lights, are positioned between the two circular instruments.

2008 BMW M3 Sedan part 1

2007-11-22T16:46:00.001-08:00

BMW raises the performance benchmark once again with the introduction of the 2008 M3 Sedan. Sharing the M3 Coupe's high-revving 414-horsepower V8 and balanced chassis that is designed to be "faster than its engine", the motorsports arm of the German auto maker, BMW M GmbH, is pleased to offer the most powerful, highest-performing M3 ever with four doors.

Originally offered in 1986 as a homologation special to allow BMW's entry into the German Touring Car Championship, the M3's popularity and steadily increasing sales for each iteration motivated the company to continue developing this unique combination of driving dynamics, comfort and luxury in a compact machine and offer a new version each time the underlying 3 Series was reborn. Americans were first introduced to the M3 sports sedan concept in 1988. The first M3 produced 192 hp from its 2.3-liter four-cylinder engine during its 1988-1991 model year run. A legend was born and Americans embraced the high-rpm, naturally-aspirated M concept. The next generation arrived in 1995 with a 3.0-liter (and later, 3.2-liter) 240-hp inline-six powerplant. In 1997 the first M3 Sedan joined the family and the first M3 Convertible followed shortly thereafter. The most-recent version, available as either a coupe or convertible from 2001-2006, again was offered with six-cylinder power, this time providing 333 hp from its 3.2 liters. This vehicle was BMW's first use of SMG (Sequential Manual Gearbox) for the US market.

The all-new 2008 M3 Sedan and M3 Coupe that arrived in spring 2008 will feature the first V8 in a series-production BMW M3. It will also feature driver-adjustable settings for crucial dynamic controls including steering, damping and stability (and an available steering-wheel-mounted "MDrive" button to store the preferences) and a sumptuous interior that can be optimized to a driver's desires including the comprehensive entertainment/navigation system operated through BMW's latest iDrive controller.

Lightweight, efficient V8 at the heart of the BMW M3

The move to eight cylinders in the fourth generation BMW M3 provides a powerplant offering the seemingly disparate characteristics of more power, increased efficiency and reduced weight when compared with the previous six-cylinder M3 engine. Displacing 3,999 cubic centimeters (4.0 liters), the new light-alloy engine produces 414 hp at 8,300 rpm and 295 pound-feet of torque at 3,900 rpm with 85 percent of the maximum torque available consistently through 6,500 rpm. This power output represents a 15-percent increase over the six-cylinder from the last generation M3 and it comes with an eight-percent fuel-economy improvement when compared to its predecessor. Compression ratio is dialed in to 12.0:1 and redline is set at 8,400 rpm.

The V8-power unit within the engine compartment of the new BMW M3 Sedan boasts the company's variable double-VANOS camshaft management. Offering extremely fast and responsive valve timing, this technology reduces charge cycle losses and improves the output, torque and response of the engine, with a positive influence on fuel economy and emission management.

A separate throttle butterfly for each cylinder - eight in this instance - is a feature adapted from BMW M's racing heritage and provides immediate reaction to the gas pedal at all times. Two stepper motors operate the four throttle butterflies on each row of cylinders, giving the engine a particularly sensitive response at low speeds together with an immediate reaction whenever the driver presses down the accelerator for extra power and performance.

A volume flow-controlled, pendulum-slide cell pump supplies the engine with lubricating oil, delivering the quantity required by the engine. Wet sump oil lubrication, optimized for dynamic performance, ensures consistent oil supply to the high-rpm engine at all times, particularly in extreme braking maneuvers. The system features two oil sumps-a small oil sump in front of the front axle subframe and a large oil sump behind it.

A new, comprehensive electronic management system coordinates all engine functions with optimum efficiency and maximizes operational integration with the clutch, gearbox, steering and brakes. In addition, the engine control unit performs a wide range of on-board diagnosis functions and masterminds the ancillary engine units.

A highlight of the engine management system is the use of ion-current technology to determine engine knock as well as misfire and poor combustion events within the cylinders. Contrary to conventional methods, this monitoring and control function is performed precisely where the phenomena occurs-within the combustion chambers. The spark plug in each cylinder senses and controls the risk of knocking, at the same time monitoring the correct ignition and recognizing any misfiring. In other words, the spark plug acts as an actuator for the ignition and as a sensor monitoring the combustion process, and is therefore able to distinguish between a misfire and poor combustion. This dual function of the spark plugs facilitates the diagnostic procedures required in service and maintenance.

And the increased performance with better economy comes from the lightweight engine. At 445 pounds, it is seven percent or 33 pounds lighter than the previous model's Inline-6.

Lightweight components do not stop with the alloy engine block. The crankcase is made of a special aluminum-silicon alloy eliminating the need for cylinder liners. Despite the need to resist high combustion pressures and engine speeds-this is the "fastest" production engine ever produced by BMW as it can reach 8,400 rpm-the engineers managed to keep the compact and rigid crankshaft weight down to 44 pounds.

Manual transmission, twin-disc clutch and Variable M Differential Lock

Power from the BMW M3 Sedan's V8 is transmitted to the rear wheels through a close-ratio six-speed manual gearbox. The performance parameters of the M3 dictated heat management as a key design factor for both the transmission and clutch. The transmission features integrated temperature-dependent oil cooling management, while internal ventilation maximizes heat dissipation for the twin-disc clutch.

The new final drive comes with a Variable M Differential Lock generating up to 100 percent locking action with fully variable action whenever required, ensuring optimum traction on all road surfaces.

Engineering a chassis which is "faster than the engine"

Providing sure-footed responsive handling for a high-performance, powerful and luxurious sedan, while keeping mass under control, presented numerous challenges for the BMW M3's engineers. The result is a new, aluminum chassis developed specifically for this model. The design begins with placing components in such a way as to create a 50/50 front/rear weight balance.

Virtually all of the front-end components are aluminum, including the front struts, swivel bearings, central subframe and an additional thrust panel below the engine serving to maximize lateral stiffness of the entire front section.

From the rear axle subframe through the transverse arms and track arms, on to the wheel mounts re-configured in their kinematics and stiffness and even the mounting points for the longitudinal arms are now even lighter, all the way to the aluminum dampers. Virtually every detail on the five-arm rear axle made of aluminum is new for this model. These weight-reduction measures and materials help reduce weight by approximately 5.5 pounds when compared to the previous M3.

Both the front and rear axles feature hollow anti-roll bars optimized for their function and weight. Incorporating two additional longitudinal reinforcement bars, axle kinematics are perfectly tailored to the overall character of the car. The result, in terms of both stability and weight, conforms to the balanced performance concept of the BMW M3 Sedan. Compound brake system

A suitably stout braking system for a car with this much performance was specifically developed for the new M3. Featuring large compound disc brakes and electronic anti-lock, stopping power for the new BMW M3 is strong, precise and consistent. The internally-vented, cross-drilled cast iron discs measure14.2 inches in diameter at the front and 13.8 inches in the rear. They are connected to a floating aluminum hub by cast-in stainless-steel pins. This configuration reduces the thermal loads on the discs, thus increasing their performance and service life. An electrically-driven pump provides the system's vacuum power.

Service - and safety - is enhanced thanks to an ongoing wear indicator which, through a dash display, allows the driver to monitor the condition of the brake linings. Brake service can thus be administered when necessary without guesswork.

Standard M-style light-alloy spoked wheels measure 18 x 8.5 inches with 245/40 low-profile tires at the front and 18 x 9.5 with 265/40 tires at the rear, can be supplemented by optional 19-inch versions in comparable widths and design.

2008 BMW Concept X6 part 3

2007-11-22T16:45:00.001-08:00

Front end with dynamic orientation to the road.

BMW Concept X6 stands out clearly as a genuine BMW from every angle. This is ensured primarily by the sculptural shape and design of the car characteristic of all BMW X models, the front, side and rear areas merging smoothly into one another, the car’s shapes and surfaces forming one common unit.

Individual details also bear out the design so typical of the BMW brand, ranging from the BMW kidney grille with its dual round headlights cut away at the side and the powerful contour line along the flanks of the vehicle all the way to the horizontal lines accentuating the sheer width of the car.

Like on the BMW X5, the fundamental look and impression of the front area of this concept car symbolises powerful presence right from the start. But given the large share of surfaces finished in body colour, the front end nevertheless creates an impression of lower height, emphasising the dynamic, road-going orientation of this Sports Activity Coupé.

The DNA of BMW X is also to be admired on the engine compartment lid and the structure of the almost vertical BMW kidney grille, with its slats finished in high-quality titanium colour. In addition, clear signs of distinction to be admired in many details serve to accentuate the sporting potential of this high performer.

Large air intake scoops positioned far to the outside not only bear testimony to the cooling requirements of an engine one can rightly expect to be particularly powerful, but also show a clear orientation, together with the side panels extending far to the inside beyond the headlights, to the wheels, emphasising how stable the car is on the road.

The air intakes are split horizontally by chrome-coloured bars also supporting the surrounds on the round foglamps. The contour of the central air intake, finally, is characterised by lines oriented to the outside, again providing a clear optical orientation to the road as such.

Through their design sharply cut across at the top, the dual round headlights typical of BMW express a particularly intense and focused look. Hence, the entire vehicle will appear to be concentrating even more on the road ahead. The outer contours of the headlight units, in turn, extend far into the side panels, making the front overhang look shorter than it really is and giving the vehicle an even more sporting and dynamic appearance from the side.
Side view: characteristic wedge shape, dynamic roofline.
The unique proportions of BMW Concept X6 are particularly clear from the side, the gently tapering roofline and the long body overhang at the rear giving the car its stretched and sleek coupé silhouette.

The roofline itself reaches its highest point directly behind the steering wheel, highlighting the driver' position and creating an effect most appropriate for the extravagant design of BMW Concept X6. The chrome surrounds on the side windows, in turn, made of one piece, accentuate the sheer elegance
of the vehicle, while the absence of pillars dividing the side area gives the window graphics a completely homogeneous look making the entire vehicle appear lighter and almost transparent.

The counter-flowing line at the bottom of the D-pillar so characteristic of BMW and well-known to the connoisseur as the “Hofmeister kick” stands out clearly towards the rear of the window frame, while slender plastic protection panels at the bottom edge of the bumpers, the side-sills and wheel arches discreetly allude to the robust character of BMW Concept X6.

The side-walls are split by two intuitively contoured lines merging slightly towards one another at the front of the car and thus creating a wedge shape signalising the forward-pushing motion of BMW X6.

The contour line extending to the rear at the level of the door openers comes out particularly clearly, emphasising the dynamic wedge shape of the car further accentuated by the growing distance between the shoulder line and the sill-line towards the rear end extending all the way to the rear lights to give the entire vehicle an even sleeker and more stretched-out look.

The second character line runs parallel to the side-sills, half-way between the contour and the sill-line. Both front and rear, this second character line ends where the large and muscular wheel arches bulge strongly out of the side panels.

Reflecting the usual style and character of a BMW X model, the wheel arches are almost square in their contours, offering sufficient space for light-alloy rims measuring no less than 21 inches, with Y-spoke design created specifically for BMW Concept X6.

The exterior mirrors on BMW Concept X6 likewise come in brand-new, innovative design. They are made up of two units with a white-glistening strip of lights between the lower unit finished in body colour and the upper section of the mirror cap made of aluminium. This row of lights supplements the corona rings in the headlights so typical of BMW and serving as daytime driving lights.

BMW Concept X6 provides particularly powerful interaction of concave and convex surfaces between the characteristic lines of the side panels. The play of light and shade created in this way gives the entire vehicle an unusually muscular look, visualising the agility so typical of a Sports Activity Coupé in a particularly fascinating manner. And the generous surfaces also emphasise the powerful presence of the vehicle, while the elegant lines structuring these surfaces are a clear expression of its elegance.

Strong shoulders and powerful roadholding distinguishing the rear end.

The rear end of BMW Concept X6 offers a fascinating combination of elegance, sportiness and robustness in one smooth and harmonious symbiosis. The muscular bumper and the protective underfloor panel are classic design elements of a BMW X car. In addition, the proportions typical also of a coupé are borne out here in design language again characteristic of BMW X, with the greenhouse featuring an unusually angled rear window tapering out to the rear.

The stable grip on the road emphasised by the powerful rear section is expressed above all by the equally powerful and elegant shoulder sections, another feature typical of a coupé being the rear lid integrating a striking air flow contour lip.

The entire rear end is split and characterised by horizontal lines making the rear end look even wider and emphasising the powerful stance of the car
on the road, in the process creating attractive interplay of convex and concave surfaces.

The rear end reaches its full width in the area of the wheel arches, the two exhaust tailpipes positioned far to the outside and featuring high-quality surrounds together with a trapezoidal contour guiding the eyes of the beholder to the wheels.

The distinctive light edge along the lower section of the bumper provides yet a further highlight referring in particular to the ground clearance of BMW Concept X6 so typical of a BMW X car. Again, it is details of this kind that characterise the exclusivity and refined nature of the world’s first Sports Activity Coupé.

The rear lights, in their design, likewise reflect the unique character of BMW Concept X6, re-interpreting the L-shape so typical of BMW’s X models and adding a dynamic, sweeping line. Extending far into the side walls, the rear lights again express the full width of the car also through its night design.
Extravagance and dynamic design for a unique driving experience.

In its design and looks, BMW Concept X6 sets new standards and leaves a lasting impression, the concept study presenting brand-new options in expressing sportiness and modern elegance. Creating a car which combines the dynamic lines of a coupé with the superior power and refined robustness of a BMW X car, BMW is once again entering new terrain in the market segment of all-wheel-drive luxury cars, where the BMW X5 has already shown how dynamic driving qualities may well become a decisive criterion in a new segment. The BMW X3 then added outstanding agility as a further factor
for success, and now BMW Concept X6 stands for the ongoing continuation of these priorities.

Despite its consistently sporting orientation, BMW Concept X6 retains the full character of a BMW X model, which indeed makes this concept study particularly appealing. Hence, BMW Concept X6 features not only the dynamic flair of a coupé, but also four doors, a large rear lid and a wide range of attributes, that is all the fortes of a BMW X model. And it is precisely this combination that expresses the extravagance and thrill of a brand-new car concept as well as the innovative power of the BMW brand.

2008 BMW Concept X6 part 2

2007-11-22T16:44:00.003-08:00

Unique, aesthetic look: dynamic coupé line and the typical features of a BMW X model.

The front end of BMW Concept X6 is dominated by highlights in design clearly symbolising the car’s dynamic orientation to the road. From the side, in turn, the proportions are definitely elegant, the short front body overhang emphasising the dynamism of the car, the long overhang at the rear, its stretched and sleek look. The long line of the engine compartment lid merges smoothly and gently into the elegantly rising A-pillars, the greenhouse moved far to the back and the roofline tapering out clearly and consistently from the B-pillars interacting with the high window line to provide low and, indeed, almost flat window graphics.

The roofline, in turn, flows down gently to the rear spoiler, finally moving up again slightly in a small upward swing perfecting the overall line of a coupé and at the same time optimising the car’s aerodynamic qualities.

The dynamically stretched side lines highlight the aesthetic effect of this concept car, with BMW Concept X6 obtaining its impressive presence clearly through the unique combination of these lines and the design elements of a BMW X car.

Apart from the high window line, the large wheel arches and the centre of gravity visibly in the middle of the car, particularly this distinctive and powerful interaction of convex and concave surfaces, of the muscular side-sills with running boards made of drilled aluminium beneath the doors and the strong underfloor protection elements front and rear also made of aluminium express all the genuine DNA of BMW X.
Consistent focus on sporting performance.
BMW Concept X6 combines the design features so typical of a BMW X model with a truly individual, aesthetic look. In its character and design, this concept car stands out clearly from BMW’s highly successful SAV models, although the core features of those models provide a strong and sound foundation for the development of a unique personality in the guise of BMW Concept X6 as the Sports Activity Coupé.

With its impressively dynamic driving characteristics, the BMW X5 already excels as a true exception in its segment, and was indeed the forerunner creating the entire segment in the first place. Now BMW Concept X6 provides a clear impression of how an even more consistent focus on sporting performance in this class is able to set standards once again.

Through its design alone, this new concept car arouses the greatest expectations of the driving experience in a Sports Activity Coupé, bearing out the robustness and superior traction of a BMW X model in combination with dynamic driving qualities never seen before in this segment of the market.
World debut: Dynamic Performance Control in BMW Concept X6.

Dynamic Performance Control making its world debut in BMW Concept X6 provides ideal qualities for experiencing new dimensions in driving dynamics. This drivetrain and chassis control system, combined with BMW’s intelligent xDrive all-wheel drive technology, offers a truly unique standard of driving stability in every situation, benefiting both driving dynamics and safety at the same time.

Dynamic Performance Control, a truly innovative system, spreads out drive forces as required in all situations, feeding a varying degree of power whenever required to the two wheels at the rear.

Dynamic Performance Control is the only system of its kind in the world able to provide its stabilising effect both under power and with the engine in overrun.

As soon as the system detects possible over- or understeer of the vehicle, for example in a bend, it will vary the distribution of drive forces between the wheels for perfect stability, dynamic traction, and forward motion. And in the process Dynamic Performance Control improves driving stability at all speeds, this unique chassis and suspension innovation ensuring not only safe traction when setting off and precise control when entering a bend, but also higher lateral acceleration and optimum directional stability when accelerating out of the bend.

BMW – setting the standard in a dynamically growing market segment.

Launching BMW Concept X6, BMW is once again proving the company's outstanding competence in the development of new car concepts. First, this fascinating study shows how the range of BMW X models highly successful the world over might be extended by yet another exclusive version; second, BMW Concept X6 presents the possibility to experience the sporting performance so typical of the brand in entirely new style and with brand-new features. The highly innovative Sports Activity Coupé created in this way is therefore once again paving the way into a dynamically growing market segment.

BMW Concept X6 is beyond comparison with any existing series production vehicle the world over. But at the same time it creates clear references and associations through its unique, sophisticated design, the world’s first Sports Activity Coupé guiding the fantasy of the particularly demanding motorist in a clearly defined direction: this car promises driving dynamics in a dimension never seen before.

Yet a further point is that BMW Concept X6, through its extravagant look and appearance, opens up very tempting perspectives for the future, this Sports Activity Coupé boasting design ideally suited to prove individual style and character.

Unique, innovative – and BMW all the way.

BMW Concept X6 is unique and brand-new in the world of the automobile. But it nevertheless stands out as a genuine BMW at first sight, all design features of this concept study clearly reflecting the particular language of BMW design. Indeed, through its design language alone BMW Concept X6 makes a number of clear and highly recognisable statements simply because they are quite unique in this constellation: The car expresses sporting elegance, superior presence and stylish extravagance as well as the symbiosis of superior power and outstanding robustness so characteristic of a BMW X car and now enhanced to a significantly higher standard in BMW Concept X6.

Clear orientation towards the product features characterising the concept of a Sports Activity Coupé gives BMW Concept X6 a fascinating look right from the start. Through its design alone, this car expresses the features essential to such an innovative vision of a completely new car. Conversely, this design principle now arouses the expectation that a BMW Sports Activity Coupé may well develop precisely the outstanding sportiness and superior power both on the road and offroad clearly borne out by this concept study.

So it is precisely the unique features of the vehicle that lead to its unmistakable design. And it is this authentic design so typical of a BMW which gives the BMW Concept X6 its individual style and character and also reflects the image of the brand. In other words – only BMW is able to create a Sports Activity Coupé, and BMW Concept X6 shows what such a car must look like.

2008 BMW Concept X6 part 1

2007-11-22T16:44:00.001-08:00

Inventing the Sports Activity Vehicle (SAV), BMW has established a highly innovative and, indeed, trendsetting segment in the automobile market. And now the time is ripe for another brand-new concept: The Sports Activity Coupé combining an elegant, dynamically flowing roofline with the typical features of a BMW X model – a truly fascinating combination now borne out for the first time in the guise of BMW Concept X6.

Description

• Concept innovation of the world’s first Sports Activity Coupé.
• As the founder of the Sports Activity Vehicle (SAV) segment, BMW is now once again presenting a new, consistently developed concept.
• The most sporting and dynamic interpretation of a BMW X model, with the emphasis above all on the car’s active driving potential. Superior driving dynamics taken up by typical BMW design language and authentically visualised in the car’s design.
• Extravagant body design combining the sporting elegance of a BMW Coupé with the striking DNA of BMW X.
• Clear orientation to the wheels, generous ground clearance and extra-large wheel arches give BMW Concept X6 the powerful presence so characteristic of a BMW X model.
• BMW Concept X6 is the first car in the world to feature Dynamic Performance Control for unique directional stability and precision under all driving conditions as well as BMW’s intelligent xDrive all-wheel-drive technology.

Exterior design:

• The powerful presence of the car’s body merges smoothly and harmoniously with the low-slung roof of the greenhouse. This flowing roofline is indeed a characteristic element of the coupé silhouette, just like the short front overhang, the long wheelbase and long rear overhang.
• In its design, BMW Concept X6 expresses all the DNA so characteristic of BMW X. The optical balance of the front and rear wheels clearly visible from the side bears convincing testimony to BMW’s intelligent xDrive all-wheel-drive technology.
• The second dominating element in the design of the body is the clear orientation to the car’s wheels, muscular wheel arches and large wheels providing a particularly impressive look and sign of stability.
• The exterior is characterised by exciting interaction of convex and concave surfaces.
• The side contour line rising up dynamically to the rear and the growing distance between the shoulder and the sill-line as the car moves to the back generate a dynamic wedge shape.
• The striking front view with clear focus on the car’s width bears out the expression so typical of a BMW X model. This powerful look is further enhanced by the extra-large BMW kidney grille serving as the air intake with robust slats, the headlights cut in a sharp profile, and clear accentuation of the side panels highlighting the flared contours of the wheel arches. The large air intakes, in turn, characterise the significant demand for cooling air in the engine, make the car look longer and underline its sporting character also from the front.
• The engine compartment lid comes with clear contours subdivided by sharp lines tapering out towards the BMW kidney grille. The elegant look created in this way is also characterised by bumper elements finished in body colour with discreet plastic appliqués in the typical style of a BMW X model.
• The unique design of the D-pillars expresses sheer power and stability, the innovative design of the rear lights emphasising the width of the car. Positioned far to the outside, the exhaust tailpipes and horizontal lines of BMW Concept X6 accentuate the wide track of the car.
• The dark paintwork standing out clearly form the chrome elements symbolises the sporting and technical character of BMW Concept X6, with sophisticated highlights being added by the sill trim at the side, the chrome-coloured slats, the foglamps with their special surrounds in the outer air intakes, as well as the chrome-plated tailpipes.
• The underfloor protection front and rear is made of milled aluminium.
• White direction indicator lines are integrated in the rear lights and the special night design of BMW Concept X6 is characterised by light bodies with a homogeneous light effect.

Debut of the World’s First Sports Activity Coupé: The BMW Concept X6.

Inventing the Sports Activity Vehicle (SAV), BMW has established a highly innovative and, indeed, trendsetting segment in the automobile market.
And now the time is ripe for another brand-new concept: The Sports Activity Coupé combining an elegant, dynamically flowing roofline with the typical features of a BMW X model – a truly fascinating combination now borne out for the first time in the guise of BMW Concept X6.

Presenting this concept car, BMW is proudly demonstrating the vision of a unique vehicle developing the striking design language of BMW X cars with a clear and consistent focus on sportiness and elegant presence.

BMW Concept X6 captures the eyes of the beholder through its highly innovative combination of design and concept features. The car combines four doors and a dynamically flowing coupé roofline with a high sill-line, muscular wheel arches, and a strong centre of gravity positioned right in the middle and making a clear reference to four-wheel-drive technology.

The result is a unique vehicle clearly presenting the DNA of a BMW X model but interpreting the character of such a vehicle in a unique and truly sporting manner. The design of BMW Concept X6 is the authentic visualisation of outstanding driving qualities borne out by the car mainly through BMW’s intelligent xDrive technology as well as Dynamic Performance Control.

2008 BMW 1-Series Coupe

2007-11-22T16:43:00.002-08:00

BMW will introduce a modern and authentic performance coupe that draws inspiration from its iconic 2002 models of some 40 years ago. The next BMW legend, the 1 Series Coupe, represents the core BMW philosophies of pure performance and premium design.

On sale in the spring of 2008, the 1 Series Coupe will be available in two versions; the 128i and the 135i. Powered by a 3.0-liter, 230 horsepower inline 6-cyinder engine that generates 200 lb-ft of torque, the 128i Coupe will feature Valvetronic valvetrain management and aluminum/magnesium contruction-core elements of BMW's EfficientDynamics. The powerful 135i Coupe features BMW's twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder engine that produces 300 horsepower and an incredible 300 lb-ft of torque from as low as 1,400 rpm. With its direct piezo gasoline injectors, twin low-mass turbochargers and air-to-air intercooling, optimum performance and economy is achieved with no loss in engine response. For the 135i Coupe, acceleration from 0-62 mph is accomplished in 5.3 seconds and top speed is electronically limited to 155 mph. Both engines feature on-demand engine coolant pumps that improve fuel economy and reduce parasitic losses for increased output.

Handsome looks with sporting intentions The new 1 Series Coupe combines unique, dynamic and unmistakable design elements with a powerful and muscular body. The greenhouse with its characteristic "Hofmeister kink" is moved rearward and offers a particularly nimble look with its long hood. The short overhangs, long wheelbase and large frameless doors sit on a body with a striking shoulder line for a modern interpretation of BMW's characteristic look. On the 135i Coupe, an M Aerodynamic Kit is standard.

The 1 Series boasts aggressive rear end styling. The trunklid has an integrated spoiler chiselled into the rear end of the car to accentuate the short rear section. On the 135i, an additional lip spoiler provides greater downforce on the rear end at high speeds.

The individual sections within the L-shaped rear taillights give the vehicle a lower, sportier look. Horizontal lights integrated in the rear light clusters offer a homogeneous lighting effect with the help of light-emitting diodes (LEDs). This light design, as found on other BMW models, makes the BMW 1 Series Coupe stand out at night. Also, the Adaptive Brakelights operating in two stages in relation to brake application force are yet another feature typical of BMW, with the additional benefit of extra safety on the road.

The standard Adaptive Xenon headlights (optional on the 128i) complete with integrated Cornering Lights make driving in the dark safer than ever. The daytime headlight function in typical BMW style with two corona rings on each headlight unit enhances the perception of the car under normal and "murky" light conditions.

Luxurious interior appointments with today's technology

The innovative interior design incorporates high-quality and sophisticated trim elements with luxurious upholstery and color choices. A 60/40 split rear seat is standard. The control console for the entertainment and air conditioning functions is integrated smoothly and harmoniously into the dashboard through its soft radii and flowing surfaces. The controller featured in the iDrive system with the optional Navigation system is integrated in the center console, again following BMW's characteristic philosophy. Galvanized pearl gloss surfaces adorn the interior door handles, the glove compartment handle, the radio's rotary knobs, the knobs of the automatic air conditioning system, the iDrive Controller, and the ornamental trim strips featured on the sports steering wheel.

The BMW 1 Series Coupe is available with a choice of two upholstery options-sporty and comfortable Leatherette or rich Boston Leather. Boston Leather upholstery adds further style to the high-quality impression of the interior. And as a practical feature, map pockets are integrated in the lower part of the doors. The optional Sport Package includes sports buckets seats with enhanced side support and are finished in highly distinctive leatherette materials or Boston leather.

Enhanced iDrive and integration of an external MP3 player

BMW's iDrive is included with the optional navigation system. It enables the driver to control all secondary and comfort functions such as communication, air conditioning, entertainment and navigation functions easily and conveniently.

This latest version of iDrive is equipped with six Programmable Memory Keys that allow the driver to program functions that are used particularly often such as navigation destinations, radio stations or specific telephone numbers. Touch-sensative sensors on these buttons preview the function on the iDrive screen before the button is depressed. This allows the driver to choose the stored function safely and conveniently, keeping his or her eyes on the road in the process.

A wide choice of audio and communication are also available, never before seen in the compact performance market. These features include SIRIUS satellite radio, HD radio, Premium Sound system and Bluetooth interface. For simple and straightforward connection of an MP3 player, an Auxiliary input jack is standard, and a USB port for direct control of an Apple iPod or iPhone media player is available as an option.

High-tech suspension with newly-developed differential

In typical BMW style, the new BMW 1 Series Coupe transmits the power of the engine to the rear wheels. This design concept and configuration – engine at the front, drive wheels at the rear – guarantees optimum traction, good weight distribution front-to-rear, excellent directional stability, and predictable handling.

The new 1 Series Coupe has a sophisticated suspension system with an aluminium double-pivot front suspension and a five-link fully independent rear suspension in lightweight steel. BMW's Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) also includes a Dynamic Traction Control (DTC) function that provides electronic intervention to prevent loss of vehicle control, but at a higher threshold before activation. This allows the driver to experience more spirited driving on dry roads and offers more flexibility when driving in more challenging conditions such as in the snow. If the driver desires, both DSC and DTC can be disabled entirely. Active Steering, a variable ratio steering system exclusive to BMW, is available as an option. The DSC system on the 135i Coupe is designed specifically for performance-oriented driving. For instance, the accelerator pedal has a quicker response rate and electronic rear brake management is used to simulate a differential lock for stronger acceleration in turns.

The rear differential on the 1 Series comes from a new generation of final drives optimized for running smoothness. Featuring double-helical ball bearings for the first time, the differential runs at an even lower operating temperature reached more quickly than before thanks to the reduction of fluid required in the differential.

The front suspension on the BMW 1 Series is also built to a standard quite unique to its competitive group. The double-pivot spring and strut front suspension with its anti-roll bar, is made largely of aluminium and offers an optimum combination of stiffness and low weight. The very stable track control arms and thrust rods, as well as exact wheel guidance, make an important contribution to the car's driving dynamics.

High safety standards exceed international requirements

No less than six airbags come standard within the new BMW 1 Series Coupe for optimum protection of the car's occupants. The advanced frontal airbags are activated in stages in relation to impact severity while the side airbags integrated into the sides of the front seat backrests reduce the risk of injury at chest and hip levels in side impact situations. HPS (Head Protection System) side curtain airbags fitted in the roof lining protect both the occupants on the front seats and the passengers at the rear. The new BMW 1 Series Coupe also comes with crash-optimized seats with specially padded headrests and backrests significantly reducing the risk of injury in an impact from the rear.

All seats within the 1 Series Coupe are fitted with three-point inertia-reel seat belts and headrests, with the front seat belts fastened on the frames of the driver's and front passenger's seats, keeping the belt in an optimum position around the occupant's hips regardless of seat height or for-aft seat adjustment.

Also, the driver's pedals move back automatically with a predetermined amount of deformation in the event of a frontal collision so that the risk of driver foot injury is reduced. And last but not least, the rear seats come standard with LATCH attachments for child seats.

M-inspired performance for the 135i Coupe

The 135i Coupe offers more performance and a striking look thanks to M-inspired components. Features include an Aero kit for additional downforce at speed, better brake cooling and enhanced aesthetics while the Sports Suspension offers higher traction and reduced body roll with 18-inch wheels and performance tires. The Sports Suspension also includes with a high-performance brake system incorporating six-piston fixed calipers on the front and two-piston fixed calipers at the rear.

BMW Ultimate ServiceTM:

Providing owners with incredible value and peace of mind

The BMW 1 Series Coupe will feature BMW Ultimate ServiceTM, a suite of services that includes the BMW Maintenance Program (formerly called Full Maintenance), Roadside Assistance and the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. BMW AssistTM with TeleService is part of the optional Premium Package or can be ordered separately as a stand-along option.

BMW Ultimate ServiceTM includes:

The BMW Maintenance Program is the only no-cost maintenance program in the industry that covers wear and tear items like brake pads and rotors for 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. BMW owners pay nothing for all scheduled inspections, oil changes, brake pads, wiper blade inserts and other wear-and-tear items.

BMW Roadside Assistance is one of the industry's most comprehensive plans available. Not only is it no-charge for the first 4 years, but there is no mileage limit. BMW drivers enjoy the assurance of on-the-road help 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, anywhere in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico. This includes everything from flat tire changes, emergency gasoline and lock-out assistance, to towing, alternative transportation and even trip-interruption benefits. This service also includes valuable trip routing advice.

BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty:

All 2008 BMW passenger vehicles are covered by BMW's excellent Limited Warranty, which includes:
• New-vehicle warranty – 4-year/50,000-mile coverage of the vehicle.
• Rust-perforation warranty – 12-year/unlimited-mileage coverage.

BMW AssistTM provides the driver with services that enhance on-the-road security and convenience, for added peace of mind. It is a part of the optional Premium package and can also be ordered separately as a stand-alone option. BMW is the only vehicle manufacturer that offers this service for 4 years at no additional cost. Most other manufacturers cover only the first year of service.

The in-vehicle equipment for BMW AssistTM includes GPS technology and hands-free communication functions accessed via buttons in the overhead or center console. Vehicle occupants may request emergency or other services simply by pressing a button; the BMW AssistTM system then transmits the location and vehicle information to the BMW AssistTM Response Center. A response specialist will then speak with the occupants to coordinate dispatch, notify emergency contacts on file, and link BMW Roadside Assistance or emergency services as needed and requested. A severe accident automatically activates the BMW AssistTM call as well. The BMW AssistTM Safety Plan also includes Remote Door Unlock and Stolen Vehicle Recovery services, which can save the owner time and money.

TeleService automatically notifies the BMW center when a vehicle will need service. This feature allows the Service Advisor to proactively set up a customer appointment and have the needed parts ready.

BMW AssistTM subscribers can also enroll in the BMW AssistTM Convenience Plan (available at an additional cost of $199 per year) to avail themselves to many BMW AssistTM Concierge services, from travel planning to dining reservations, shopping assistance and event tickets, as well as receive directions, and traffic and weather information. A selected destination and its phone number can be sent directly to the on-board navigation system and Bluetooth®–linked mobile phone, after a push of the new Concierge button. The Convenience Plan also includes Critical Calling, a new service that connects the driver in case their mobile phone is not in the vehicle or its battery is discharged. After pushing the SOS button, a BMW AssistTM response specialist will link the driver to his requested party for up to five minutes and for up to four events per year.

As before, the BMW AssistTM system includes Bluetooth® hands-free phone connectivity with hands-free phonebook access and dialing by name or number via the steering wheel controls. Use of this feature requires a customer-provided compatible Bluetooth® mobile phone.

Performance with a conscience

BMW strives to produce its motor vehicles and other products with the utmost attention to environmental compatibility and protection. Integrated into the design and development of BMW automobiles are such criteria as resource efficiency and emission control in production; environmentally responsible selection of materials; recyclability during production and within the vehicle; elimination of CFCs and hazardous materials in production; and continuing research into environmentally friendly automotive power sources. Tangible results of these efforts include the recycling of bumper cladding into other vehicle components; water-based paint color coats and powder clear coats; near-future availability of hydrogen-powered models; and various design and engineering elements that help make BMWs easier to dismantle at the end of their service life.

BMW Group in America

BMW of North America, LLC has been present in the United States since 1975. Rolls-Royce Motor Cars NA, LLC began distributing vehicles in 2003. The BMW Group in the United States has grown to include marketing, sales, and financial service organizations for the BMW brand, the MINI brand, and the Rolls-Royce brand of Motor Cars; DesignworksUSA, an industrial design firm in California; a technology office in Silicon Valley and various other operations throughout the country. BMW Manufacturing Co., LLC in South Carolina is part of BMW Group's global manufacturing network and is the exclusive manufacturing plant for all Z4 models and X5 Sports Activity Vehicles. The BMW Group sales organization is represented in the U.S. through networks of 339 BMW passenger car centers, 334 BMW Sports Activity Vehicle centers, 143 BMW motorcycle retailers, 80 MINI passenger car dealers, and 30 Rolls-Royce Motor Car dealers. BMW (US) Holding Corp., the BMW Group's sales headquarters for North, Central and South America, is located in Woodcliff Lake, New Jersey.

2008 BMW 6-series

2007-11-22T16:43:00.001-08:00

The Authentic, Progressive Grand Touring Automobiles with Newly Updated Styling, Interior Refinements and New Luxury options, The all new redesigned BMW 6 Series hits the showrooms.

Featuring highly attractive modifications to their characteristic design, an interior further refined in many details and boasting new color highlights, as well as innovations in drive technology and driver assistance and safety systems, the new BMW 6 Series Coupe and the BMW 6 Series Convertible offer a greater thrill and more style than ever before. Indeed, through their looks and style, combined with cutting-edge technology, both models are authentic representations of the classic Grand Touring automobile featuring modern highlights together with classic qualities.

Brilliant performance is delivered by the eight-cylinder power unit featured in the BMW 650i Coupe and the BMW 650i Convertible. Developing 360 hp from an engine capacity of 4.8 liters, this power unit allows truly dynamic performance combined with incomparable smoothness and refinement.
The new six-speed automatic sports transmission is tailored perfectly to the character of the BMW 6 Series, combining comfortable cruising with the option at any time to use the full power and muscle of the engine for all-out acceleration and driving dynamics.

Style and sport are indeed inherent characteristics of the BMW 6 Series: either as an elegant Sports Coupe in the proud tradition of a genuine Grand Touring Coupe or as a dynamic Luxury Convertible enabling the driver and passengers to enjoy the wind rushing by in an incomparable manner. Both models combine their strengths with the convincing everyday driving qualities of a large and spacious 2+2-seater.

The BMW 6 Series Coupe and Convertible stand for a heritage of no less than 70 years dedicated to the thrill of mobility and success in motorsport. Cars such as the BMW 327/328 Coupe, the BMW 3200 CS, the BMW 3.0 CSi and the first generation of the BMW 6 Series to this day represent the unique combination of elegance and competition-oriented sportiness so characteristic of BMW.

The history of dynamic driving pleasure with nothing but the sky above was originally introduced in the BMW 327 Convertible, the BMW 335 Convertible, and the BMW 503 Convertible, all of them milestones in technology and design, with a strong and lasting impact on the ongoing development of the brand and its products.

The 6 Series today also plays a significant role within BMW's model portfolio. It is indeed the benchmark for innovation, and a powerful expression of progress in technology. Cars of this kind establish a particularly active relationship between the manufacturer and the customer, with the dedicated 6 Series owner showing a clear preference for the BMW brand and, at the same time, a strong affinity for innovations in technology, premium quality, and individual style.

An attitude of this kind creates a particularly close relationship with the product and its features not only prior to, but also after purchasing the car. Innovations of this standard endorsed and acknowledged by the critical customer of this caliber have the potential to define the progress of the entire brand. This, in turn, makes the BMW 6 Series a role model not only in design, but also in its control and operating concept, its comfort functions, chassis and suspension technology, and driver assistance systems.

Having built over 75,500 cars within the past three years is impressive proof of the close link between the BMW brand and the tradition of the sophisticated, top-quality Grand Touring automobile. In this segment, facing keen competition from a number of high-ranking competitors, the BMW 6 Series, measured in terms of registration figures, ranks a proud second among all luxury sports cars the world over. In other words, right from the start it immediately left the competition with comparable all-round qualities far behind.
Clearly dynamic: new highlights in exterior design.
The BMW 6 Series boasts powerful innovations characteristic of the brand and its leadership over the competition not merely through the cars' power unit. For in their design and style, both the 6 Series Coupe and the 6 Series Convertible offer a level of quality only the development process applied by the BMW Group is able to achieve.

While the engineers responsible for developing the drivetrain benefit from skills and the art of engineering going back decades in enhancing the level of perfection through new technologies such as EfficientDynamics, the success of BMW design lies in the ability to interpret the traditional values of the brand with supreme creativity in looking into the future. Hence, the design and styling of the BMW 6 Series clearly reflect the highly dynamic, refined, top-quality and progressive technical standard of the car as a truly authentic rendition of this supreme standard.

The overall design and look of both models, offering perfect harmony and balance to the last detail, is borne out in particular by the sculptural look of both cars, providing a perfect match of all lines and design features. Indeed, the smooth, uninterrupted flow of all characteristic lines on the 6 Series ensures harmonious interplay of the front section, the sides and rear sections of the car, the generous and powerfully curved surfaces all coming together to provide a harmonious picture to be admired in its sporting elegance and dynamic class from every angle and every perspective.

Offering this unique design language, the BMW 6 Series Coupe stands out as a modern and innovative interpretation of the classic Grand Touring Coupe. And in the same way, the BMW 6 Series Convertible, through its design, is a proud symbol of sporting and elegant driving pleasure with nothing but the sky above.

Powerful and full of presence from every perspective.
Both the Coupe and Convertible now make an even more powerful and striking stance on the road. The strong lines extending all the way from the A-pillars along the entire engine compartment lid to the BMW kidney grille and forming a dynamic arrow further emphasized by the powerfully chiseled bars in the lower air intake.

The air intake itself is even wider than on the former model and borders at the bottom on a new contour edge significantly highlighting the wide track of the car. The newly designed directional indicators, in turn, featuring LED light units with a crystalline effect, provide an even more distinctive signal than before.

Through their striking contours, the headlights give the front end of the BMW 6 Series a clear, focused look, new light technology adding further brilliance. Featured as standard, the bi-xenon dual round headlights are covered by a layer of clear glass at the surface, their corona rings now offering BMW's typical daytime driving light function.

With its long wheelbase, the long and sleek engine compartment lid, the greenhouse moved far to the back and the low roofline tapering out gently to the rear of the car, the BMW 6 Series has all the proportions of a classic Coupe. And thanks to its unique finned roof, the BMW 6 Series Convertible also offers the same, dynamically stretched silhouette.

The light edge on the side-sills is even more pronounced and distinctive than before on the new BMW 6 Series, offering extra volume and contours to highlight the sporting character of the car. The new metallic paint colors Deep Sea Blue and Space Gray, as well as new light-alloy rims, offer further options in rounding off the sporting elegance of the new BMW 6 Series according to the customer's individual preferences.

In the process of modifying the rear end of the car, BMW's designers have harmoniously continued and enhanced the concept of ongoing lines extending around the entire vehicle. The section of the luggage compartment lid beneath the spoiler lip is even more concave in design than before, rising up less steeply to provide not only a more dynamic look, but also more distinctive light/shade contrasts, making the entire rear end of the car look even lower and more dynamic.

On both the Coupe and Convertible, the additional brake light is now integrated in the spoiler lip. The inner structure of the rear lights has also been modified to reflect the new lines of the car, with all light sources now being LED units.

The harmony of lines on the luggage compartment lid, the rear lights and reflectors is likewise more intense and striking than before, the line formed by the lower edge of the rear spoiler sweeping gently downwards, where it is taken up by the outer contour of the rear lights. Then, following the design of the lights, the spoiler line, while still moving down, sweeps to the inside, where it is taken up by the contour of the low, even more stretched-out and sleeker reflectors.

BMW 6 Series all the way: harmony of design outside and inside.
The stylish and elegant dynamism of the car's exterior design continues smoothly and harmoniously within the interior of the BMW 6 Series. Bearing a clear analogy to the exterior design of the car, the concept of dynamic harmony forms clear, flowing lines and tense, muscular surfaces. As an example, the sweeping cover above the dashboard starting beneath the windscreen extends back on both sides in an ongoing, dynamic line leading into the door panels and surrounding the armrests. Both the driver and front passenger are therefore enveloped by tense, even exciting design elements continuing all the way to the center console between the rear seats, thus emphasizing both the sophisticated style and elegance of the interior in a genuine visual and tangible experience.

The unique nature of the new BMW 6 Series is enhanced by appropriate refinements in the quality of materials on specific controls and instruments finished in new Chrome Pearl Grey Design as well as new colors for the interior trim and upholstery.

As an alternative to the standard aluminum trim, optional interior trim strips made of grained maple wood or dark birch wood give the interior either a technical and progressive feel or a sophisticated, stylish and elegant look.

Optional finish in Pearl exclusive leather, with additional leather on the armrests, the door grab handles and the center console, is now also available in Chateau Red and in a new upholstery color, Saddle Brown.

Featuring a combination of leather and Pearl Grey chrome, the iDrive Controller matches the look of the new rotary buttons, thus additionally enhancing the overall harmony of the car's design.

Precise control of the system is further facilitated by a ring around the Controller made of extra-hard rubber, and to ensure even more intuitive use, the iDrive control system in the new BMW 6 Series comes complete with six programmable memory keys allowing direct access to selected functions, such as a favorite phone number or navigation destination.
Unparalleled supremacy: the eight-cylinder in the BMW 6 Series.
Once again, the eight-cylinder power unit in the new BMW 6 Series marks the pinnacle in superior power and performance. The 4.8-liter engine develops maximum output of 360 hp at an engine speed of 6,300 rpm, with peak torque of 360 lb-ft at 3,400 rpm.

This cutting-edge aluminium power unit features throttle-free VALVETRONIC valve control, variable double-VANOS camshaft management on the intake and exhaust side, as well as an intake manifold switching to two different settings. Benefiting from these highlights in technology, the eight-cylinder offers superior smoothness and refinement, an immediate and direct response, and a truly powerful torque curve.

The new BMW 650i Coupe accelerates to 60 miles per hour in 5.3 seconds (with manual transmission) while the BMW 650i Convertible completes the same exercise in 5.6 seconds. Engine management, in turn, limits the top speed of both models to 250 km/h or 155 mph.

Fuel economy and emissions optimized on all models.
A wide range of fuel-saving features in and around the engine also serve to make all of the power unit in the new BMW 6 Series even more efficient. One example is the Varioserv steering assistance pump that ensures particularly efficient steering support and assistance according to the driver's current requirements.

Further new technologies serving to save fuel provide their superior effect without any intervention by the driver. The belt drive for the a/c compressor, for example, comes with its own clutch automatically disconnecting the compressor as soon as the driver switches off the air conditioning.

New automatic sports transmission and shift paddles on the steering wheel.
Engine power on the new BMW 650i is transmitted to the rear wheels in standard trim by a six-speed manual gearbox. Optionally available, at no charge, is BMW's newly developed six-speed Sports Automatic transmission, combining supreme comfort with extremely fast reaction and gearshift times in genuine Grand Touring style. Further advantages are the direct connection of the automatic transmission to the engine and, as a result, dynamic conversion of engine power into driving pleasure and performance.

The driver controls the Sport Automatic by means of an electronic gear selector lever, moving the lever briefly to the left from position D in order to activate the manual gearshift mode. This allows the driver to shift gears either via the gear selector lever or manually in sequential mode by means of paddles on the steering wheel. A further option is to shift gears manually directly from the paddles. Pressing the Sports button positioned behind the gear selector lever, the driver is able to enjoy an even faster and dynamic gearshift. A further benefit is that the Sports button also modifies the progressive action of the gas pedal and, in conjunction with the car's standard steering, the Servotronic control map, providing optimum conditions for dynamic acceleration.

All-aluminum suspension for enhanced agility, safety and comfort.
Both the BMW 6 Series Coupe and the Convertible are characterized by sporting and superior driving characteristics at all times and under all conditions. Featuring a high-performance power unit, rear-wheel drive, excellent axle load distribution, and an ultra-modern all-aluminum suspension, the BMW 6 Series offers a supreme driving experience under all conditions. The principle of lightweight construction on the chassis and suspension, in turn, guarantees supreme stability on low weight and minimizes the car's unsprung masses.

The high-performance floating-caliper brakes with inner-vented brake discs are controlled hydraulically on the BMW 6 Series, now acting even faster and more precisely than before in guaranteeing maximum stability and full brake power at all times.

Dynamic Stability Control with optimized control action.
Offering a wide range of functions, Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) supports the driver in the process of handling his BMW safely and with superior style. First and foremost, DSC can apply the brakes individually on the car's various wheels as required, or intervene in engine management in order to counteract any over- or understeer in bends.

DSC also includes the ABS anti-lock brake control system as well as Automatic Stability Control, which helps prevent the drive wheels from spinning on loose or slippery ground, as well as Brake Assist, and Cornering Brake Control to help avoid under- or oversteer in bends.

Further functions include Brake Fade Compensation when the brakes become particularly hot, Brake Drying to optimize the car's stopping power in wet weather, and Start-Off Assistant, enabling the driver to set off smoothly and without the car rolling back on an uphill gradient, without having to use the handbrake.

A further innovation is Brake Standby, whose pre-loading brake function moves the brake pads closer to the discs for immediate build-up of brake pressure, thus avoiding the slightest delay in the process of applying the brakes. In the event of an emergency braking maneuver, this precaution enables the brakes to build up their maximum stopping power much faster than usual, making stopping distances shorter and offering valuable safety reserves.

The Brake Assistant in the new BMW 6 Series, part of the DSC control system, is networked with the car's other driver assistance systems, interacting with the optional Active Cruise Control with its Stop & Go function in order to detect the need for extra stopping power in good time. This is done by radar sensors incorporated in the system, with the brakes being pre-loaded by reducing the normal activation thresholds on the hydraulic Brake Assistant.

Activated at the touch of a button, Dynamic Traction Control serves to raise the DSC response threshold for even more dynamic performance. Specially optimized in the new BMW 6 Series, this DTC mode enhances traction on slippery surfaces and ensures an even higher standard of sporting performance under dynamic driving conditions.

Unique: Active Steering and Active Roll Stabilization.
Standard on the BMW 6 Series, Servotronic power steering provides appropriate assistance on the hydraulic rack-and-pinion steering as a function of road speed. Further enhancement of steering comfort is provided by optionally available Active Steering, unique in the 6 Series segment, varying the steering ratio appropriately to provide a larger steering angle at low speeds with the same movement of the steering wheel than at higher speeds. In practice, this allows the driver to maneuver the car with less effort and with an even smoother steering effect. At higher speeds, Active Steering makes it easier for the driver to remain steadily on course, harmonizing the feeling of the steering.

By way of yaw rate control, Active Steering stabilizes the car when applying the brakes on surfaces with different traction levels side-to-side, counter-steering as required for superior safety and balance.

Another innovation reflecting the character of the BMW 6 Series is Active Roll Stabilization. This suspension control system features active anti-roll bars with hydraulic swivel motors on the front and rear axle, enabling the car to almost completely eliminate body roll movements in bends and in a sudden change of direction. A further benefit is appropriate control of the car's steering behavior in a lane change or in hard maneuvers serving to avoid an obstacle on the road.

Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go.
Active Cruise Control with its Stop & Go function offers the driver better support and greater assistance at the wheel than ever before. This innovative system now available as an option in the new BMW 6 Series - on models with automatic transmission - features automatic distance control, allowing the driver to comfortably cruise along the highway or on a country road as well as in stop-and-go traffic at very low speeds, while constantly maintaining an appropriate distance to the vehicle ahead.

As soon as the distance pre-set by the driver can no longer be maintained, the system adjusts the speed of the car by intervening in drive management and building up brake pressure, thus taking current traffic conditions into account. Then, as soon as the road ahead is free again, Active Cruise Control increases the speed of the car to the limit set by the driver. The system even reduces the speed of the car to a standstill whenever necessary based on current traffic conditions, bringing the car to a halt and holding it in that position.

The maximum deceleration generated by Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go is 0.5g. And should the driver be required to intervene because the vehicle ahead is applying the brakes extremely hard, he will be alerted to do so by appropriate visual and acoustic signals.

New: Lane Departure Warning with vibration signal on the steering wheel.
To support driver awareness, both the new BMW 6 Series Coupe and the new BMW 6 Series Convertible are available with a newly developed assistance system helping to prevent the driver from inadvertently departing from the correct lane on the road. Referred to as Lane Departure Warning, this sophisticated system identifies movement of the car from the correct lane and gives the driver a discreet but noticeable signal at the most important point in steering the car - on the steering wheel itself.

The Lane Departure Warning System is made up of a camera fitted near the interior mirror on the windscreen, a control unit for comparing data, and a signal transmitter generating a vibration signal on the steering wheel.

BMW Night Vision
BMW Night Vision, available as an option, offers a higher level of safety when driving at night. The "heart" of this unique system is a thermal imaging camera able to detect people, animals and objects emitting heat at a distance of up to almost 1,000 feet down the road, then transmitting a high-contrast image to the central Control Display also used by the navigation system.

Head-Up Display
As an option, both the BMW 6 Series Coupe and the BMW 6 Series Convertible are available with a Head-Up Display projecting information relevant to the driver such as the road speed of the car or navigation data to the windscreen directly in front of the driver.

Comfort and safety on all four seats.
High-strength load-bearing structures, generous and clearly defined deformation zones front and rear, side impact protection integrated in the doors and rear side panels, and an extremely stiff passenger cell allowing the entire structure around the driver to maintain its function as a survival area in a severe collision - all these features provide the prerequisites for the exemplary standard of passive safety offered by the BMW 6 Series.

Other standard features are three-point seat belts with pretensioners on all seats as well as front and side airbags for the front occupants. The BMW 6 Series Coupe also comes with head airbags, while the BMW 6 Series Convertible features rollbars which move up automatically in the event of a possible rollover within fractions of a second from behind the rear headrests.

Active headrests for an even higher standard of occupant protection.
Both the BMW 6 Series Coupe and the BMW 6 Series Convertible come as standard with electrically adjustable seats for the driver and front passenger as well as a triple memory function on the driver's seat. The front seats on the BMW 6 Series Convertible feature an integrated belt system, while on the BMW 6 Series Coupe the belt anchor points allow comfortable and convenient use of the car's restraint systems.

Newly developed active headrests on the front seats once again enhance the standard of passive safety in both models, the headrests developing their protective effect in the event of a rear-end collision by automatically moving closer to the occupant's head, thus preventing any rapid spinning or turning motion of the head, in the process significantly reducing the risk of upper spinal injury for the driver and front passenger.

To ensure this effect, the headrests are moved forward by 60 millimeters or 2.36´´ and upward by 40 millimeters or 1.57´´ as soon as the airbag control unit registers an impact at the rear of the BMW 6 Series and sends out a signal for pyrotechnical activation of the system. This, in turn, releases two springs moving the upholstered sections of the headrests into position to immediately cushion the heads of the occupants, preventing any spinning or jerking movement resulting from impact energy.

Top-end navigation and audio systems.
As a particular highlight in the interest of motoring comfort, both the BMW 6 Series Coupe and the BMW 6 Series Convertible are equipped with the BMW Navigation System, including Real Time Traffic Information. Among other features, the BMW Navigation System features refined graphic presentation on an 8.8-inch Control Display as well as new, particularly reliable voice entry exclusive to BMW cars.

High-quality audio systems and telematics functions serve to enhance touring comfort and driving pleasure in the new BMW 6 Series. BMW's optional Premium Sound Package continues to include a 6 disc CD changer and Logic 7 and adds a USB interface is also available as an option for linking up external audio sources. This allows the user to integrate MP3 players such as an Apple iPod into the audio system and to control the various functions by means of the iDrive Controller or the multifunction buttons on the steering wheel.

The range of multi-media features and options is rounded off by BMW Assist telematics services including TeleService, which enables customers to make service appointments with their BMW center.

Leather upholstery with SunReflective Technology on the Convertible.
One of the particular highlights offered by the BMW 6 Series Convertible is the use of a newly developed type of leather for the seat upholstery and interior panels. In this case, so-called "cool pigments" are integrated into the material in a process referred to as SunReflective Technology, reflecting infra-red radiation in the sunlight. This very effectively reduces undue overheating of the seat surfaces when the car is open, providing a difference in temperatures compared with conventional leather of up to 36 °F in the case of dark colors.

2008 BMW 6 Series: The Authentic, Progressive Grand Touring Automobiles
Together with the characteristic design of both models and their impressive standard of driving dynamics, the comprehensive range of multi-faceted features helps to give the BMW 6 Series its truly authentic and unique identity. Indeed, the new BMW 6 Series Coupe and the new BMW 6 Series Convertible belong to the small group of cars fulfilling the greatest demands in every respect and setting new benchmarks everywhere. Given the sheer magnitude of their qualities, both models stand out clearly in their respective segments, reflecting the ideals of the discerning motorist dedicated either to the refined dynamics of a four-seater Grand Touring Coupe or the unique driving pleasure only a Luxury Convertible is able to offer.

2008 BMW 5-Series

2007-11-22T16:42:00.001-08:00

BMW has released information on the 2008 BMW 5-Series. New model facelift includes revised front fascia, new taillights, new rear air-diffuser (Sedan models) and redesigned interior with upgraded materials. All 6-cylinder Sedans and Sports Wagon receive significant power increases, comparable to 3 Series cars.

2008 BMW 5 SERIES
Product Highlights

General
• Essentially all-new platform introduced in '04; Valvetronic 6-cylinder engines, larger V-8 engine, all-wheel-drive Sedans and Sports Wagon added in '06. 2008 models substantially updated with mild facelift, revised interior and major powertrain changes for 6-cylinder models
• '08 models began production in March '07; early release in May 2007; produced in Germany
• Six models offered; five 6-cylinder models and one V-8 model:
• 528i Sedan, with 3.0-liter N52 inline 6-cylinder engine (230 hp)
• 528xi Sedan, same engine as 528i but with xDrive all-wheel drive
• 535i Sedan, with N54 3.0-liter twin-turbo inline 6-cylinder engine (300 hp)
• 535xi Sedan, same engine as 535i but with xDrive all-wheel drive
• 535xi Sports Wagon, same engine as 535i/xi Sedans, xDrive, 5-door body and many specific Sports Wagon features
• 550i Sedan, with 4.8-liter V-8 (360 hp)
• All models available with 6-speed manual 1 or automatic transmission; 535i and 550i Sedans available with new 6-speed Sport Automatic at extra cost
• Base prices including $775 destination charge (all with a choice of manual or no-cost STEPTRONIC automatic transmission):
528i Sedan – $45,075
528xi Sedan – $47,275
535i Sedan – $50,175
535xi Sedan – $52,375
535xi Sports Wagon – $54,775
550i Sedan – $59,275
• 5 Series U.S. sales in calendar 2006 – 56,756 (Sedans and Sports Wagon; includes M5).

What's new for 2008
All models:
• New model facelift includes revised front fascia, new taillights, new rear air-diffuser (Sedan models) and redesigned interior with upgraded materials. All 6-cylinder Sedans and Sports Wagon receive significant power increases, comparable to 3 Series cars.
• Lane Departure Warning system boosts driver awareness by providing the driver an immediate warning about lane placement
• Active Cruise Control adds "Stop & Go" feature, which permits cruise-control operation even in heavy traffic
• Freshened interior provides an even more elegant look, with additional leather and extended wood trim.
• Ergonomic changes include more convenient window switches, relocated console ashtray and electronic shifter
• In addition, standard iDrive adds six programmable memory buttons, which can be used for anything from radio station presets to navigation destinations or auto-dial telephone numbers
• Premium Sound Package discontinued; Logic7 premium stereo available as stand-alone option. BMW center-installed 6-disc CD changer also available
All 5 Series Sedans
• Reconfigured optical headlight lenses
• New front airdam has reshaped opening with upturned ends
• Relocated amber DOT lenses; headlight area is completely white
• Taillights include new white design with fewer reflectors, plus red lines in the optical lenses
• Reshaped rear bumper, with revised diffuser below the bumper
535xi Sports Wagon
• New front-end treatment includes revised headlights, front fascia and
relocated DOT lenses.
• New rear-end treatment includes reconfigured taillights. Rear diffuser remains as before

Performance & efficiency
All 5 Series models:
• Technically updated STEPTRONIC includes faster shifting and more efficient operation for improved efficiency and quicker acceleration; now a no-cost option for 2008
• New electronic shifter, similar to that featured in the X5 SAV, offers "shift-by-wire" actuation and more ergonomic operation
• SMG no longer available
528i/xi Sedan only
230-hp N52 engine for all 528i/xi models:
• magnesium/aluminum composite construction
• Valvetronic and Double VANOS 2 valve actuation
• includes single-stage intake
• revised tuning provides 230 horsepower @ 6500 rpm, 200 lb-ft. of torque at 2750 rpm, an increase of 15 horsepower and 15 lb-ft. of torque over previous 525i.
• New optional wheels and tires. 528i Sport Package includes 18-inch wheels with performance run-flat tires; 18-inch wheels optional with Sport Package on 528xi
535i/xi Models
300-hp N54 for all 535i/xi models:
• all-aluminum construction w/cast-iron cylinder liners
• twin-turbocharger technology boosts horsepower with virtually no turbo-lag
• Direct fuel injection with piezo electric injectors
• Double VANOS 1 steplessly variable valve timing
• N54 engine rated at 300 horsepower @ 5800 rpm, 300 lb-ft. of torque at 1400-5000 rpm, an increase of 45 horsepower and an astonishing 80 lb-ft. of torque over previous 530i/xi, with a significantly broader torque band.
• Brake discs upgraded to 13.7 front and 13.6 rear, same size as 550i
535i Sedan
• New optional Sport Automatic transmission includes steering-wheel paddle shifters and rpm matching during downshifts, plus a Sport button for quicker, more dynamic shifting (beginning 06/07 production)
• Sport Package includes 18-inch wheel and tire sizes in staggered width; first time on 6-cylinder models

535xi Sedan

• 535xi Sport Package offers the additional option of 18-inch wheel and tire sizes in staggered width; first time on all-wheel-drive models
535xi Sports Wagon
• 300-hp N54 engine, same as 535i/xi Sedans. This engine makes the 535xi Sport Wagon the most powerful wagon BMW has ever offered, including the previous-generation (E39) V-8-powered 540i.
• 535xi Sport Wagon offers 18-inch wheels and tires as an upgrade with the Sport Package
550i Sedan
• New optional Sport Automatic includes steering-wheel paddle shifters and rpm matching during downshifts (beginning 06/07 production), plus a Sport button for quicker, more dynamic shifting
• Sport Package now includes 19-inch, staggered-width wheels with performance tires.

Ergonomics, luxury & convenience
• Thoroughly revised interior
• New standard steering wheel
• Window switches relocated to armrest
• Larger, more refined door pockets
• Smaller, leather-wrapped passenger door handle
• Wood trim now flows from the instrument panel into the door panel, giving a richer, warmer, more integrated look
• iDrive includes six programmable "favorites" buttons, which can be set to frequently used features including destination addresses, phone numbers or radio station presets
• Leather-wrapped center console with:
• New ashtray
• Leather-trimmed iDrive controller w/single menu button
• New center-console storage compartment
• New electronic shifter for STEPTRONIC automatic with ergonomically optimized contour, placement and function
• Radio buttons and temperature controls trimmed in titanium silver

Options
• Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go feature allows operation even in traffic, and can accommodate speeds all the way down to a complete stop, and resume to set speed from 0 mph
• Lane Departure Warning system, provides an immediate but discreet notification when the car crosses into another lane without turn signals
• USB adaptor for iPods or MP3 players, which does not use the CD changer connections
• Premium Sound Package discontinued; Logic7 premium stereo and 6-disc CD-changer available separately
• Sequential Manual Gearbox discontinued

Other highlights
All models
• BMW Ultimate Service, including BMW Maintenance Program, for 4 years/50,000 miles included in base price
• Standard 6-speed manual transmissions have self-adjusting clutch for long clutch life
• Aluminum suspension system for outstanding handling and riding comfort (528xi and 535xi models: aluminum rear suspension only)
• Aluminum front-end structure – contributes to weight reduction and optimum front/rear weight distribution
• Vehicle and Key Memory allows users to personalize many electronic comfort, convenience and security features
• Leather-covered 3-spoke power tilt/telescopic steering wheel with auto tilt-up for entry/exit, multi-function controls
• BMW Ambiance Lighting: LED lights in roof bathe console area in soft orange light, helping occupants find controls at night; enhanced lighting features included in Premium Package
• All models available with Sport Package and Cold Weather Package; all 6-cylinder models also available with Premium Package
• Wide range of stand-alone options includes Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go feature (automatic transmission only), Active Steering, Park Distance Control (standard 550i Sedan), alternate wood interior trim selections, 20-way front Multi-contour seats, split folding rear seats (Sedan models; standard Sports Wagon), heated rear seats, BMW On-board Navigation System, Head-up Display, Lane Departure Warning system, Night Vision, SIRIUS Satellite Radio, HD Radio, rear window- and/or rear door-window sunshades, rear-seat side-impact airbags
• 10-way power front seats standard in all models; 20-way Multi-contour seats in Sport Package or as a stand-alone option; 4-way power front-seat lumbar support with 528i/xi Premium Package, standard in 535i/xi models and 550i
• Memory system for driver's seat, steering wheel and exterior mirrors; 2 positions for each user (captured by Key Memory)
• 1-touch operation of all side windows and moonroof
• Body structure engineered for excellent occupant protection in full and offset frontal impacts, side impacts and rear impacts
• Front-seat safety belts with automatic tensioners and force limiters
• Front and rear Head Protection System (AHPS II) standard in all models
• Front-seat side-impact airbags standard in all models
• Rear-seat side-impact airbags optional in all models
• Battery Safety Terminal – after a severe impact, severs high-current connection between battery and starter cable to help prevent possible short circuit
• BMW Assist Safety Plan with 4 year membership standard equipment

2008 5 Series models
528i Sedan
• 3.0-liter N52 inline 6-cylinder engine
• 230 hp, 200 lb-ft. torque
• Preliminary EPA est. MPG (revised EPA rating standard):
17 mpg city/27 mpg highway (manual transmission) or 18/27 (automatic)
• No-cost choice of 6-speed manual transmission or STEPTRONIC automatic
• Sport Package wheels and tires are 18-in. with run-flat performance tires
535i Sedan – additional features over 528i Sedan
• 3.0-liter N54 twin-turbocharged inline 6-cylinder engine
• 300 hp, 300 lb-ft. torque
• Preliminary EPA est. MPG (revised EPA rating standard):
17/26 (AT); (manual transmission available SOP 09/07)
• Optional Sport Automatic includes steering-wheel paddle shifters and rpm matching during downshifts, plus a Sport button for quicker, more dynamic shifting
• Sport Package wheels and tires are staggered width 18-in. with run-flat performance tires
• Standard Xenon Adaptive headlights
• Standard 4-way power lumbar support on front seats
528xi/535xi Sedans over 528i/535i Sedans
• xDrive – fulltime all-wheel drive system, electronically controlled with variable front/rear torque split and traction control
• Preliminary EPA est. MPG (revised EPA rating standard):
528xi Sedan – 17/25 (MT) or 17/25 (AT)
535xi Sedan – 17/25 (AT); (manual transmission available SOP 09/07)
• Manual transmission of all xi models is heavier-duty Getrag Type H; rear-wheel-drive 528i Sedan has Type I transmission
535xi Sports Wagon over 535xi Sedan
• Most-powerful BMW Sport Wagon ever offered
• 3.0-liter N54 twin-turbocharged inline 6-cylinder engine
• 300 hp, 300 lb-ft. torque
• Preliminary EPA est. MPG (revised EPA rating standard):
16/24 (AT); (manual transmission available SOP 09/07)
• 5-door Wagon body
• Standard roof rails
• Dual-panel Panoramic Moonroof (Sedans have single-panel moonroof)
• Standard split folding rear seats
• Rear-window wiper/washer
• Split tailgate with separately opening rear window (power-operated tailgate with programmable lift height in Premium Package)
• Many special features for versatile cargo-carrying capabilities
550i Sedan over 535i Sedan
• 4.8-liter N62 TU (Technically Updated) V-8:
• 2-stage induction system
• Aluminum construction
• Dual overhead camshafts (DOHC) per cylinder bank, 32 valves
• Valvetronic variable intake-valve lift
• Steplessly variable intake- and exhaust-valve timing
• Direct ignition system with knock control
• 360 hp, 360 lb-ft. torque
• Preliminary EPA est. MPG (revised EPA rating standard):
550i Sedan: 15/22 (MT), 15/23 (AT)
• New optional Sport Automatic includes steering-wheel paddle shifters and rpm matching during downshifts, plus a Sport button for quicker, more dynamic shifting
• Sport Package wheels and tires are staggered width 19-in. with performance tires
• Standard Park Distance Control, leather upholstery, Ambient Light Package, auto-dimming interior and exterior mirrors and BMW Universal Transceiver

The BMW Concept CS

2007-11-22T16:41:00.001-08:00

Description in Brief.

Video of BMW Concept CS

Character:

Concept study of a four-door Gran Turismo for the luxury segment.
Modern, sophisticated surface design bearing testimony to a supreme standard of craftsmanship and experience in moulding convex-concave surfaces.
The very essence of brand values so typical of BMW in a new segment ensuring a perfect combination of superior dynamics and stylish exclusivity.
Modern interpretation of the premium concept ensured by extreme precision in every design detail, choice of the most refined materials, and perfect craftsmanship.
Previously unseen combination of vehicle dimensions and weight ensured by consistent implementation of lightweight strategies.
European-style aesthetics, clear emphasis on the car's stretched look, low-slung roof-line, low centre of gravity, extremely long wheelbase (see "Exterior and Interior Dimensions").
Innovative interior design with layered surfaces, clearly defined joints serving a functional purpose.
Clearly defined, sporting seat position for four occupants.

Exterior design:

Sporting, sleek and low-slung all-round look as an expression of a four-door Gran Turismo.
Highly expressive, dynamic front-end design with the striking BMW kidney grille as the central highlight.
Prominently positioned BMW kidney grille to ensure a good supply of cooling air to the engine.
Re-interpretation of BMW's classic contour line at the side, door handlers fitted flush in position as a consistent testimony to the car's attractive sculpture.
Powerfully flared wheel arches, 21-inch light-alloy wheels, body width increasing towards the rear and thus emphasising the sporting, wide track of the car.
Flowing roof area with aerodynamically optimised contours.
Innovative headlights with LED reverse projection technology and extremely slender rear lights behind clear glass. Night design with homogeneous light bodies.

Interior design:

Uncompromising, highly aesthetic interior design with layered surfaces (layer design concept) and clearly defined functional joints.
Driver-oriented cockpit with clear ergonomic structuring of functions relevant to the driver and oriented towards superior comfort in the controls and displays.
Layer design concept also applied to the design of the double circular dials to provide clearly structured information on several visual levels.
Focus on the joints and seams around the body panels serving to consciously use air venting and ambient interior illumination options.
Supreme exclusivity and perfect craftsmanship in the finish of the interior highlighted by contrasting colours and surfaces in different kinds of leather.
Introduction of particularly sophisticated, powerful-looking ceramics as the material for the controls and instruments.
Innovative sports seats with a fold-up collar element.

Entering a New Dimension:
The BMW Concept CS.

Introducing the BMW Concept CS, Germany's leading manufacturer of premium automobiles is presenting the vision of a unique four-door car which combines the exclusivity of a genuine luxury Gran Turismo with the fascinating thrill of a high-performance sports car. This unique combination never seen before offers the perspective to enjoy sheer driving pleasure in a dimension quite unprecedented in the world of motoring. Indeed, the BMW Concept CS is a new definition of design culture. Concentrating on powerful, expressive design, materials of the highest quality, and quality of finish in perfection, this unique new model offers a completely new understanding of premium quality. And within its interior, the BMW Concept CS combines stylish luxury with the most uncompromising ambience full of class and value.

Through its design alone, the BMW Concept CS underlines the supreme skill and competence of the BMW brand in developing the most sporting and dynamic cars offering ample space for more than two occupants. The most spectacular rendition of this heritage at BMW is the BMW M5, which established a brand-new segment in the world of motoring more than two decades ago and is acknowledged to this day as the benchmark in high-performance saloon motoring.

Now the know-how BMW has acquired over the years and decades comes together with the worldwide fame of the company as a manufacturer of premium automobiles, the BMW Concept CS thus offering the best of both worlds.

BMW is using the skills and competence established over such a long time to combine the most fascinating highlights of sporting performance and sophisticated luxury in an unprecedented new concept. Hence, the BMW Concept CS impressively proves how the successful strategy of the sporting four-door may be carried over consistently into the luxury performance segment.

Exterior design: where qualities typical of BMW all come together.
More than any other saloon in the past, the BMW Concept CS bears out all the highlights of optimum performance through the design of its body alone. The low-slung, dynamically stretched silhouette, the long engine compartment lid and stylish lines and contours accentuating rear-wheel drive technology simply perfect for sports motoring, all set clear standards for supreme dynamics in a new dimension of out-standing vehicles. Through its supreme presence, stylish elegance, and challenging dynamism, the BMW Concept CS, in a nutshell, offers truly unique design language with highly individual aesthetic features never seen before.

Precisely this explains why all the elementary values of the BMW brand are concentrated in the BMW Concept CS, superior dynamics and sophisticated elegance all being borne out together through the authentic style and design of the car. Clearly, therefore, the BMW Concept CS is the pacemaker leading into a new category of values typical and characteristic of the BMW brand.

Design culture and dynamics of the highest standard.
Offering a synthesis of features unique to the BMW brand, the BMW Concept CS introduces new, tempting highlights in a particularly demanding segment of the market. This unique model combines the qualities of a luxury saloon and a high-performance sports car in one, raising this superiority to a new, unprecedented level. As a result, the BMW Concept CS adds an unparalleled touch of sporting dynamism to the conventional culture of a saloon, offering the driver and passengers the complete dynamic potential of such unique power on four full-sized single seats.

While the conventional saloon focuses primarily on driving comfort, the BMW Concept CS sends out a clear message of active, dynamic motoring. A message which reaches all the car's occupants, with the generous feeling of space in this four-door being supplemented by a sporting and low seating position enjoyed not only by the driver and front passenger, but also by the passengers at the rear on their own single seats. For this reason alone, the BMW Concept CS is, not least, the vision of a sports car for the ambitious driver offering the passengers the same experience of sporting performance and luxurious pleasure.

Individual style meets exclusive class.
The innovative, unique driving experience offered by the BMW Concept CS is appropriately reflected by all the car's interior features, the design of the interior and the various technical innovations interacting perfectly with one another. The ambience of the interior is indeed just as unique as the character and body design of this one-off sporting four-seater, offering all the occupants a brand-new experience of aesthetic style and design. And it almost goes without saying that within the car the occupants enjoy such unique exclusivity in particular style on four single seats.

The innovative design and finish of both the surfaces and controls is further accentuated by the use of top-quality materials and quality of finish enhanced to perfection. Unnecessary opulence is replaced by highly focused luxury, together with an exemplary standard of detail and elegance. The precision that has gone into the development and production of all components is obvious at very first sight, clearly expressing BMW's dedication to supreme performance in every respect.

Style and unique aesthetics of BMW.
Measuring 5.10 metres or 200.8 inches in length, the BMW Concept CS is dominated by dynamically flowing lines. From the BMW kidney grille standing out powerfully to the front, the eyes of the beholder move back along the low-slung and sleek engine compartment lid, subsequently meandering along the side-line and roof-line all the way to the deliberately short rear-end with its clear-cut air flow spoiler.

The dynamically stretched silhouette of the car proudly boasts a wide range of features typical of the character of a particularly sporting, avantgarde automobile. All of these features clearly bear testimony to excellent aerodynamics as well as a low centre of gravity helping to promote superior agility on the road. And at the same time the carefully modelled transitions between the body sections are a clear symbol of the car's nimble character and performance, despite its size.

Four doors with a unique, sporting and low body line.
The sporting, low-slung silhouette of the car is further accentuated by body height of just 1.36 metres or 53.5 inches. A further important feature is the gentle taper of the roof-line at the rear serving again to smoothly stretch the proportions of the entire car.

The re-interpreted contour line, as seen from the side, serves to emphasise the technical concept of rear-wheel drive so crucial to dynamic performance on the road. Subdividing the silhouette of the car into various sections, the contour line stretches from the beginning of the A-pillar in a gentle, rising movement all the way up above the front door, gradually petering out beneath the rear side window. Then the contour line starts again in the lower section of the rear door, first running parallel to the wheel cut-out in a powerful arch. From there the rear contour line is continued as a straight line also rising slightly up to the rear end of the car.

The roof-line likewise tapering out gently to the rear also provides a brand-new effect when looking at the car from the side, adding a touch never seen before on a saloon. The striking contour of the C-pillar, in turn, provides an additional visual highlight of attractive clarity, the transition of the C-pillar into the rear section of the car tapering out at a lower angle than the steeper rear window rising up from its base point. This creates a unique expression of classic notchback design highly individualised and varying according to your angle of vision.

At the bottom, the C-pillar offers a new, enhanced interpretation of the reverse line sweeping to the front known by tradition as the "Hofmeister kick". And last but not least, a gentle and extremely attractive light-edge stands out above the side window precisely where the C-pillar merges into the roof-line.

Characteristic front-end design consistently enhanced.
The front-end design of the BMW Concept CS is a particularly striking example of the consistent enhancement of BMW's design language. Here the BMW kidney grille stands out as a powerful element typical of the BMW brand and naturally a famous icon of body design, giving the car its unique look and emphasising the flow of air into the engine. Indeed, the kidney grille is not only the central, but also the dominating element in the design of the entire front end.

Through its dimensions alone, as well as its position slightly inclined to the front, the kidney grille establishes a clear link to classic BMW sports cars. All further elements at the front end of the car are angled in the direction of travel and designed as a genuine sculpture around the kidney grille, with all directly adjacent surfaces being modelled in concave design.

Significant functional features add further meaning to this special look of the car, with the BMW kidney grille serving as the primary supply of air to the engine. The two recesses in the front side panels, in turn, help to cool the brakes on the car. And since a power unit befitting the dynamic character of such a sports saloon most probably requires an ample flow of cooling air, the need for an extra-large kidney grille is obvious at first sight.

Applying the philosophy that "form follows function", the contours on the engine compartment typical of a BMW have developed into a genuine sign of distinction born out of technical needs and requirements. On the BMW Concept CS, the powerdome as a further highlight in design extends over the power unit as a particularly large, almost awe-inspiring design feature.

The engine compartment lid is supported at either side by headlight units merging flush into the design of the car and resting flat on the side panels, extending far back into the front wings. The slender space thus left over above the extra-large wheel arches underlies the agility and, accordingly, the athletic performance of the car.

Innovative headlight technology.
Within the dynamic, low-slung headlight units featured in the BMW Concept CS, particularly innovative technology serves to generate a powerful and consistent light beam: Innovative LED reverse-projection lights bundle their light on a reflection area from where the beam is conveyed smoothly, consistently and with utmost precision to the road ahead. This provides a particularly homogenous area of illumination without the slightest dazzling effect, since the oncoming motorist does not look directly at the projectors.

The short front overhang of the body creates yet another sign confirming the sporting concept of the car, showing the connoisseur clearly that the engine may be placed behind the front wheel suspension. Obviously, such arrangement of the engine serves once again to make the car particularly agile and dynamic on the road.

The extra-large wheel arches offer space for big 21-inch wheels – again exceptional proportions alluding clearly to an extremely high standard of steering precision and tracking stability. And the rear wheel arches are powerfully chiselled to perfection even more than the wheel arches at the front, with the car growing wider towards the rear end, again accentuating the transmission of power to the rear wheels so typical of BMW.

Dynamic roof-line guiding your eyes – and the air flowing by.
The sculptural design language so characteristic of the BMW Concept CS in its body design allows unique interplay of concave and convex surfaces, reflecting and guiding the light on and around the car in exactly the right way. One example in this context is the exterior mirrors on this unique car blending harmoniously with the side-view, the mirrors through their design alone repeating the overall look and lines of the car. The door handlers are integrated into the flanks of the BMW Concept CS even more discreetly: Housed within a chrome-bar running to the rear at the height of the contour line, the door handlers controlled by sensors move out only when really needed.

Yet another innovation in the design of this saloon is the centrepiece along the roof line of the BMW Concept CS slightly drawn in at the rear. This exceptional contour design visible only from behind but nevertheless unusually powerful in its look optimises the flow of air in and around the roof area. The aerodynamic touch established in this way underlines the overall sporting impression of the car and serves at the same time as yet another feature of sculptural design and perfection.

Sculptural design for truly unique style.
Given all these features, the BMW Concept CS is a modern counterpart to the conventional notchback design of a "regular" four-door. Indeed, never before on a saloon have the individual body sections merged so smoothly into one another, creating a low-slung and stretched appearance. And this impression of all-round perfection with supreme harmony of looks from every angle is further enhanced when admiring the transitions modelled with extreme care and diligence, providing additional light effects, for example, around the C-pillar. Features of this standard alone clearly confirm BMW's philosophy to express supreme design culture through perfect precision and style in every respect.

The much lower flow of the C-pillars compared with the position of the rear window again serves to emphasis the flowing transitions from one body section to the next. Seen from the side, the entire car has the lightness of a coupé – but then all you have to do is change your perspective only slightly in order to perceive and appreciate all the style of a classic four-door. Given the short body overhang at the rear, the size of the separate luggage compartment is hard to appreciate to begin with. Instead, the rear end is dominated by other design features emphasising both the wide track and the aerodynamically optimised rear look of the car.

Moving up at the rear, we see that the two tailpipe rings are integrated in the rear air dam. In its night design, in turn, the BMW Concept CS is characterised by slender rear lights emitting a homogeneous, low-slung and therefore strikingly harmonious lighting effect.

With its design language absolutely authentic and convincing to the last detail, the BMW Concept CS offers all the fascinating thrill of new design culture. The particular impact of this sporting four-door, in turn, results not only from individual highlights, but also from the overall look of the car accentuating its complete character so convincingly. The car's dynamic potential is indeed expressed both by its proportions and lines symbolising both power and a dynamic, forward-moving urge. And last but certainly not least, the BMW Concept CS boasts particularly sophisticated elegance through the great care and diligence applied in turning innovative design culture into reality.

The interior: an outstanding driving experience on all four seats.
The interior of the BMW Concept CS also offers dynamism of a completely new standard borne out by the combination of exclusive elegance and sophisticated refinement. In designing the interior, the innovative technique of layering the individual surfaces and components provides an unprecedented combination of function and stylish reduction to the essential. The appropriate use of joints and seams, together with layered surfaces, creates new options in the arrangement of functional elements for both ventilation and illumination. And at the same time the layering concept offers new possibilities to clearly express the class and value of the materials used as well as the precise design of the car's interior through contrasting colours and the structure of different materials.

Featuring height-adjustable collar elements directly integrated in the seats, the four full-sized sports seats meet all the needs of personalised entertainment and communication, thus raising the experience of quality within the interior to an unprecedented standard. More than ever before, this highlights the sheer value of the materials used, the love for all details, and quality of finish now enhanced to perfection.

Interaction of innovative design and exclusive materials, together with the use of a highly expressive colour scheme, gives the interior of the BMW Concept CS a unique touch of luxury based not on simple opulence, but rather on perfect quality.

The design of the interior clearly reveals the truly outstanding driving experience in a unique ambience. A brand-new concept for subdividing the cockpit into various sections, as well as unparalleled standards in the choice of materials and in the quality of finish, create an unprece-dented flair of exclusivity and individual style. And added to this there is a clear pledge to sportiness expressed both by the arrangement and finish of the four single sports seats and the design of the controls and instruments.

An invitation to active motoring.
The driver-oriented cockpit immediately shows the motorist that he or she is in control of everything happening at the wheel. Just like the arrangement of all controls and instruments, the design and layout of the cockpit is an invitation to active motoring. A very clear example of this straightforward philosophy is the short distance between the steering wheel and the shift lever, while in their design the sports seats combine a touch of lightness with the sporting elegance of the finest leather. The low-slung seating position and the clear structure of the instruments likewise evoke the wish to really experience and savour the dynamic potential of this unique car.

Lots of space, lots of support: sports seats also at the rear.
The BMW Concept CS presents the vision of an automobile proudly offering all its qualities to the driver. The unique thrill of driving the car is obviously borne out most by taking your position at the wheel, while the sheer driving pleasure offered in the process is shared out among all the occupants: Just like the front-seat passenger, the passengers on the single seats at the rear will also appreciate and cherish the sporting and active driving experience offered by the BMW Concept CS. Precisely this is ensured by the contours of the rear seats with their perfect side support tailored to the contours and design of the front sports seats. And thanks to the single seat concept, elbow freedom on the rear seats is just as good as on the front passenger's seat.

The centre console flows back smoothly all the way to the rear, serving as a comfortable armrest and at the same time offering additional storage space. In all, therefore, the passengers sitting at the rear enjoy a brand-new, truly innovative ambience standing out clearly from the conventional style of a "regular" four-door model.

Cultivating the flow of joints and seams: layering the interior design.
The combination of features previously regarded as incompatible within the BMW Concept CS represents a complete departure from conventional standards. Indeed, the BMW Concept CS opens up a new era in many areas, the unique combination of sporting performance and stylish elegance also coming out clearly in the design of the interior.

The BMW Concept CS is therefore no more and no less than a new milestone in refined interior design, applying an innovative layering technique developed by BMW to provide unprecedented interplay of the various interior elements. Instead of large surfaces and connec-tions with their transitions nearly always characterised by a change in materials and colours, the layering technique stratifies the various surfaces flowing into one another, with clearly defined seams taking on a functional role, for example in the arrangement of light sources and venting nozzles. The result is a very refined effect of light and shade making a significant contribution to the exclusive overall look and impression of the interior.

Contrary to the design of the body incorporating flowing lines, generous surfaces and harmonious interplay of concave and convex elements in order to capitalise above all on light effects, the layering concept applied within the interior mainly uses shade effects and changes in structure. Wherever individual surfaces in the structure of the cockpit do not meet on the same level, we find separate zones kept away from the direct flow of light – and precisely these zones provide the right space for the inconspicuous arrangement of various functions. The recesses and superimposed surfaces provided in this way offer appropriate space for ambient illumination as well as the arrangement of air vents. Dazzle-free interior lighting and discreet shade effects upgrade the entire flair of the interior and create a kind of light, hovering effect.

This layering philosophy is continued in the design of the instruments themselves, the displays in the instrument cluster presenting various functions and items of information on different optical levels. This again creates the impression of superimposed surfaces serving, first, to clearly structure the information offered and, second, to generate an impression of three-dimensionality.

Colour design rich in contrasts, high-quality materials.
BMW's designers have also created unmistakable highlights through the choice of materials and colours: Powerful colour contrasts generate a dynamic ambience full of vitality appropriately reflecting the dynamic driving experience on the four seats of the BMW Concept CS. High-quality, refined leather in sophisticated brown forms a powerful contrast to surfaces in elegant off-white. Finished in matt tan, this brown leather is indeed to be admired not only on the seats, but also on the instrument panel, the upper doorsills, and the outer edges of the roof lining. Around the armrests and in the door panels themselves, this change in colours accentuates the dynamic lines of the interior created by the particular design and shape of individual elements. And finally, the leather trim on the dashboard continues in a slender band extending harmoniously into the door linings.

As a further innovative highlight, the roof lining in the BMW Concept CS is accentuated not only through a contrasting colour scheme, but also by finishing the outer flanks of the roof lining likewise in leather. Ambient light bands stretching out along the entire length between the windscreen and rear window, finally, add yet a further touch of luxury inside the car.

Reflecting the particular style of the exterior, the flowing structure of the interior surfaces shows special care and diligence in the transitions from one section to another. As an example, the leather trim on the centre console and the door entry area extends far down into the footwells.

The dashboard also uses a newly developed metal structure literally "embracing" the various surface elements. This material particularly attractive in its structure as well as its cool colour and feeling surrounds the circular instruments in the cockpit, together with the other features and elements. Yet another supreme innovation is the use of high-tech ceramics for the controls and instruments. And as a symbol of solidity and value, the BMW iDrive Controller is also made of a special ceramic material.

Unparalleled and typical of BMW: the BMW Concept CS.
The unique flair pampering both the driver and his passengers within the BMW Concept CS is an equally clear expression of both a new culture in body design. Both outside and inside, the BMW Concept CS therefore conveys the same message, telling the world that the experience of driving a saloon now comes in an entirely new rendition. So in presenting this new Concept Car, BMW is not only entering a brand-new segment of the market never occupied before, but is also setting the milestone with a brand-new type of car: The four-door luxury Gran Turismo enters a new dimension of motoring in new style and with new features.

A new experience of dynamics and the ambience around us, exemplary quality in design and finish, extreme precision in the dimensions of the car, and concentrated luxury within the interior – these are the features that characterise the BMW Concept CS. And at the same time all this bears clear testimony to the superior know-how and competence of BMW's engineers and designers in creating such truly emotional automobiles.

The sum total of such qualities in the BMW Concept CS can be created only on a sound foundation of firmly defined values: innovative power, sporting performance, aesthetic design, an open frame of mind, and full awareness of quality. Precisely these are the values BMW has been applying consistently for decades in the development of particularly outstanding saloons and fascinating, truly dynamic sports cars. And now these values are concentrated even more than before in an unprecedented manner in the BMW Concept CS.

BMW e34 Making Sense of Synthetic Lubricants

2007-11-20T21:31:00.000-08:00

This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series. The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection. See The Official Book Website for more details. The book is due out in October 2005.

All of us have seen countless ads telling us to change our engine oil every 3000 miles. Some of us have watched the infomercials showing cars driving on the racetrack with allegedly no oil or engines running on a stand while the host pours sand and gravel over an exposed valve train. Virtually all of the lube shops have some kind of magic additive that they will say you need. What are we to believe? Or more relevant, what is right for you? In becoming an Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants dealer in 1998 I have done a great deal of research on all kinds of lubricants and additives and in this article I will share the facts about synthetic oils, petroleum based oils, and additives so that you can make an informed decision about what is right for your cars.

Oil Classifications.

There are two systems for oil classification. The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity grade and the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification that designates the type of engines for which the oil was designed. The SAE viscosity grade is known as the “W” number when classifying oils. Most oils on the shelf today are multi-viscosity such as 10W30 or 20W50. In general, the lower the first number, the better the oil will perform in extremely cold conditions. Conversely, the higher the second number the better the oil will protect at higher temperatures. If you were driving to Minnesota in the winter you would want the lowest number you could find like a 0W30. In our Florida climate however, a 10W40 or a 20W50 would be a better choice. The API designation is typically an “S” designation for gasoline engines and a “C” designation for diesel engines. Most of today’s oils carry an SH,CF or SJ,CF designation signifying that they are suitable for use in all gasoline or diesel automotive applications. Those of you with diesel trucks or motor homes should look for an API CG-4 rated oil. Which brand you buy is largely a matter of preference. Consumer Reports (6/97) found very few differences between major brands of oil and all with the above SAE and API designations performed fine in normal applications.

Synthetic vs. Petroleum based oils.

Synthetic oils were originally developed more than 50 years ago and became widely used in jet engines. Less than -120єF ambient temperatures, 60000 shaft rpm, and 500є+F exhaust temperatures proved too much for conventional oils. Synthetics were created specifically to withstand these harsh conditions and to date every jet engine in the world uses synthetic lubricants. Amsoil introduced the first synthetic oil for automotive use in 1972 and have continued to be at the leading edge of development ever since. Mobil 1, undoubtedly the most recognized name in synthetics, was introduced in 1976. Many companies have jumped on the bandwagon and have since released synthetic lubricants for automotive use and all are becoming increasingly popular for their superior lubricating properties, superior ability to flow at cold temperatures, and their ability to withstand high temperatures for extended periods of time. Several new cars including the Porsche 996 and the Chevrolet Corvette LT-1 are delivered with synthetic oil in the crankcase and require synthetic oil use throughout the life of the car.

There are two primary differences between synthetic oils and conventional petroleum oils. These are the base stock or liquid that makes up the volume of the oil, and the additive package. There are additives (not to be confused with over the counter additives which will be discussed later) in all oils that enhance the wear resistance properties of the oil, enhance the ability of the oil to neutralize acids and combustion by products, and provide corrosion protection for the engine’s internal surfaces. The amount and quality of these additives vary from one oil brand to another and this is a very significant factor in the ability of an oil to adequately protect your engine in all driving conditions. As a general rule of thumb, the cheaper the oil, the fewer additives it has and therefore, the less able it is to protect your engine.

There is one school of thought that suggests that the only difference in synthetic oils vs. petroleum oils is that the synthetics typically have a better additive package. This statement is only partially true. Synthetics almost always do have superior additives than petroleum oils. While this does add to the cost of the oil, it also enables the oil to last 3-5 times longer than conventional oil. The synthetic base stock however, is of paramount importance in the ability of a synthetic oil to flow at cold temperatures and withstand greater amounts of heat over significantly longer periods of time. Petroleum base stock molecules are long carbon chains that are sensitive to stress and heat. Additionally, various paraffins that are contained in all petroleum products regardless of how well refined they are, cause oil to jell like a syrup at extremely cold temperatures. At the other end of the temperature spectrum, high engine temperatures and heavy loads (as typically found in towing or racetrack applications) cause these chains to break down and the base stock actually boils off causing a change of viscosity and the formulation of sludge. This can happen at temperatures as low as 230є F and by 250є F many petroleum oils are suffering significant breakdown. Synthetic oils on the other hand are engineered specifically to provide all the lubricating properties that natural oil possesses, but none of the cold thickening or hot thinning properties of petroleum oil. Synthetics are made up of uniformly shaped molecules with shorter carbon chains which are much more resistant to heat and stress. Synthetics can withstand temperatures of 300єF all day long and still protect your engine. In fact the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) standard wear resistance tests are conducted at 302є F. In this test synthetic lubricants far out perform petroleum lubricants by factor of four to one and greater.

Oil temperatures of 230єF to 250єF are not at all uncommon in driver’s education track conditions, particularly in early 911s with no front coolers or the marginally effective “trombone” oil coolers. These temperatures are also fairly common in air-cooled engines in summer time stop and go traffic with the A/C on. Further, temperatures on the cylinder walls and in turbos are often over 450°F for short periods of time. Liquid cooled cars can also have extremely high oil temperatures even though the water temperature may be normal. I observed this first hand several years ago in a race car where the water temperature stayed right on 210єF while the oil temperature fluctuated between 240є F and as high as 280є F depending on how hard the car was driven. Needless to say, this particular car was running synthetic oil and remarkably ran about 50 hrs. between rebuilds with no significant wear. Further, Winston Cup star Rusty Wallace was recently quoted after the 2000 twin 125 races in Daytona that his car was running a little hot with water temperature at 230° and oil temperature at 260°F. Rusty’s team is sponsored by Mobil 1 and I would think it is safe to say that they use the product.

The point of the above paragraphs is quite simply that synthetic oils have a much wider operating temperature range, by design, than petroleum oils.

Off The Shelf Additives

There are countless over the counter oil additives on the market, as there have been for a number of years. In recent years a number of companies have appeared on the scene with huge national television advertising campaigns, racecar sponsorship, and more, all designed to make the consumer believe that the products really work and you are doing yourself a favor by adding these to your car. The fact is that these products are not necessary, do very little to help your engine, and in many cases may actually do more harm than good. The major car companies do not endorse any of these products and in fact your owner’s manual will undoubtedly advise you to avoid them.

Consumers Reports did a test (10/98) in an attempt to verify, or rebuke, one company’s ad which claimed that their product “bonded” to the engines moving parts forming a protective barrier against wear. The ad claimed that their test car ran without any oil all over Southern California, in stop and go traffic, with the air on, for 4 hours and 40 minutes. The ad also claimed that the only reason the driver stopped was to get something to eat. Pretty unbelievable. In an attempt to prove or disprove the viability of the ad, Consumer Reports tested two Chevrolet Caprices, both with identical zero time rebuilt V6 engines. Both cars were broken in with normal petroleum oil per the manufacturer’s recommendations. The oil and filter were then changed with one of the cars receiving the prescribed dose of this magic additive. Both cars were then driven for about 100 miles, allegedly long enough for this magical bonding to occur, and the oil subsequently drained. Both were then driven again, now with empty crankcases, in normal traffic to see how long they would last. Interestingly both engines failed, almost simultaneously, after about 14 minutes of driving thus proving the claims of the additive manufacturer to be nonsense. Consumer Reports notified the FTC of the test and their results and the manufacturer was subsequently forced to stop running the ad.

There are some over the counter additives that contain Teflon or PTFE. Once again the ads claim that the Teflon bonds to the internal working parts of the engine forming a slippery surface (like your Teflon frying pan) and therefore reducing wear. Fundamental laws of Physics prove that such claims are impossible, as the temperatures in internal combustion engines (200є-250єF) are insufficient for any bonding to occur. Further, independent oil analysis labs have observed that the suspended Teflon particles actually tend to accumulate the microscopic metals that are normal in engine oil formulating much larger, and potentially much more harmful, deposits in engines than would normally occur if straight motor oil had been used. In some cases, the oil filters became clogged, oil pressures dropped across the filter and oil analysis showed significantly more wear than oil alone. Similar to the previous situation, the FTC challenged the makers of products with PTFE on their claims of “coating of PTFE” and “reduced engine wear” based again on Consumer Reports findings of “no discernible benefits” from use of the product. The makers of these products agreed with the FTC in a settlement to stop using the above phrases in their ads.

Economics of Synthetics vs. Petroleum Lubricants

All of the manufacturers of synthetic oil tout the benefits of reduced wear, more horsepower, lower operating temperatures, and improved fuel mileage. All of these benefits are derivatives of better cold flow characteristics and higher levels of friction reducing additives that are found in synthetic oils. I can confirm better cold driving characteristics, increased fuel mileage of nearly 10%, noticeably lower operating temperatures, better heat dissipation capability, and long term high temperature stability based on my own experience with synthetic lubricants. Are these benefits enough, however, to persuade average drivers to give up their trusted petroleum oils and pay the extra price for synthetics? Enthusiasts, yes. Average drivers, perhaps not. However, synthetic lubricants can endure extended drain intervals, which is a major consideration toward justification of the higher costs. This benefit is not widely promoted by the major oil producers most likely because they want you to pay a premium for their synthetic oils every 3000 miles just like their regular oils. Most companies don’t bother to tell you that synthetic oils are capable of going 25,000 miles or more without significant breakdown. One customer told me he drove his Toyota more than 50000 miles (with filter changes every 10000 miles) before oil analysis results told him it was time for a change. It is not uncommon for over the road truckers to go several hundred thousand miles between synthetic oil changes. The short trips and stop and go city driving that most of do is much tougher on motor oil than over the road highway driving. In fact, frequent short trips (2 miles or less) and stop and go city driving is considered by some raters as extreme and our cars need increased protection. Fortunately, we can achieve the superior protection and the economic benefits of synthetic oils while staying within the recommendations of our car manufacturers.

Consider the following economic argument. If you change your oil every 3000 miles at a quick lube center at an average price of $23.00 per change, you spend $115.00 over 15000 miles. Most synthetic oil changes cost about $50.00 (much less if you do it yourself) on which you can drive 7500 miles very safely (a 7500 mile interval is within virtually all manufacturers recommendations). Over the same 15000 miles, only two oil changes are required for an investment of $100.00. A shop could charge up to $57.50 and it is still a break-even proposition, plus you put a superior product in your car and are receiving the additional benefits that synthetic lubricants can provide. I typically drive about 12000 miles between changes with a filter change and oil analysis at 6000. Even after 12000 miles oil analysis advises that the oil is “suitable for continued use” and typically the wear metals are less than conventional oil after 3000 miles. In fact in a test performed by Popular Mechanics some years ago, oil analysis showed in New York City taxicabs that there is typically less oil breakdown and less wear metals in Amsoil 10W40 synthetic oil after 60000 miles (albeit with filter changes every 6000 miles) vs. conventional 10W40 oil after 3000 miles. As an added benefit, less waste oil is being put back into the environment. A true win-win proposition.

Conclusion

Most major brand name petroleum oils perform adequately provided your driving conditions are normal and provided you change the oil regularly (remember, short city trips, driver’s ed track events, dusty conditions, and towing are considered extreme). Over the counter additives have been proven to be of little to no benefit, often do more harm than good, and are a waste of money regardless of what you drive and how you drive it. Finally, for those of you who drive your vehicle hard, tow a trailer, drive very short distances, sit idling and in stop & go traffic for long periods, live in a cold climate and/or if your car runs hot, quality synthetic motor oil, synthetic gear lube, and synthetic automatic transmission fluid is a wise investment that will provide the additional protection you require as well as last thousands of miles longer than conventional lubricants.

BMW e34 More than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil

2007-11-20T21:30:00.000-08:00

Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype.

Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base.
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc.
Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm.

The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.

The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown.
_______________________________________________________________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| ________________________________________________________ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|________________________| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
______________________________________________________________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C

Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.

Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.

Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.

Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.

Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.

% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.

% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available

Brand	VI	Flash	Pour	%ash	%zinc
20W-50
Amsoil	136	482	-38	<.5	---
Castrol GTX	122	440	-15	.85	.12
Exxon High Performance	119	419	-13	.70	.11
Havoline Formula 3	125	465	-30	1.0	---
Kendall GT-1	129	390	-25	1.0	.16
Pennzoil GT Perf.	120	460	-10	.9	---
Quaker State Dlx.	155	430	-25	.9	---
Red Line	150	503	-49	---	---
Shell Truck Guard	130	450	-15	1.0	.15
Spectro Golden 4	174	440	-35	---	1.5
Spectro Golden M.G.	174	440	-35	---	.13
Unocal	121	432	-11	.74	.12
Valvoline All Climate	125	430	-10	1.0	.11
Valvoline Turbo	140	440	-10	.99	.13
Valvoline Race	140	425	-10	1.2	.20
Valvoline Synthetic	146	465	-40	<1.5	.12
20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade	110	440	-15	.85	.12
Quaker State	121	415	-15	.9	---
15W-50
Chevron	204	415	-18	.96	.11
Mobil 1	170	470	-55	---	---
Mystic JT8	144	420	-20	1.7	.15
Red Line	152	503	-49	---	---
5W-50
Castrol Syntec	180	437	-45	1.2	.10 - .095 % Phosphor
Quaker State Synquest	173	457	-76	---	---
Pennzoil Performax	176	---	-69	---	---
5W-40
Havoline	170	450	-40	1.4	---
15W-40
AMSOIL	135	460	-38	<.5	---
Castrol	134	415	-15	1.3	.14
Chevron Delo 400	136	421	-27	1.0	---
Exxon XD3	---	417	-11.9	.9	.14
Exxon XD3 Extra	135	399	-11	.95	.13
Kendall GT-1	135	410	-25	1.0	.16
Mystic JT8	142	440	-20	1.7	.15
Red Line	149	495	-40	---	---
Shell Rotella w/XLA	146	410	-25	1.0	.13
Valvoline All Fleet	140	---	-10	1.0	.15
Valvoline Turbo	140	420	-10	.99	.13
10W-30
AMSOIL	142	480	-70	<.5	---
Castrol GTX	140	415	-33	.85	.12
Chevron Supreme	150	401	-26	.96	.11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf	135	392	-22	.70	.11
Exxon Superflo Supreme	133	400	-31	.85	.13
Havoline Formula 3	139	430	-30	1.0	---
Kendall GT-1	139	390	-25	1.0	.16
Mobil 1	160	450	-65	---	---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo	140	410	-27	1.0	---
Quaker State	156	410	-30	.9	---
Red Line	139	475	-40	---	---
Shell Fire and Ice	155	410	-35	.9	.12
Shell Super 2000	155	410	-35	1.0	.13
Shell Truck Guard	155	405	-35	1.0	.15
Spectro Golden M.G.	175	405	-40	---	---
Unocal Super	153	428	-33	.92	.12
Valvoline All Climate	130	410	-26	1.0	.11
Valvoline Turbo	135	410	-26	.99	.13
Valvoline Race	130	410	-26	1.2	.20
Valvoline Synthetic	140	450	-40	<1.5	.12
5W-30
AMSOIL	168	480	-76	<.5	---
Castrol GTX	156	400	-35	.80	.12
Chevron Supreme	202?	354	-46	.96	.11
Chevron Supreme Synt.	165	446	-72	1.1	.12
Exxon Superflow HP	148	392	-22	.70	.11
Havoline Formula 3	158	420	-40	1.0	---
Mobil 1	165	445	-65	---	---
Mystic JT8	161	390	-25	.95	.1
Quaker State	165	405	-35	.9	---
Red Line	151	455	-49	---	---
Shell Fire and Ice	167	405	-35	.9	.12
Unocal	151	414	-33	.81	.12
Valvoline All Climate	135	405	-40	1.0	.11
Valvoline Turbo	158	405	-40	.99	.13
Valvoline Synthetic	160	435	-40	<1.5	.12

All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake.
The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification.
The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.

BMW e34 Welding Review

2007-11-20T21:29:00.001-08:00

I’ve received many questions about the process, procedures and techniques regarding MIG welding over the recent past. This is written for those brave enough to even consider welding their prized possession – their 914. While welding at first appears to be a “black art”, in reality, it is a practiced talent – and a "talent" which is relatively easy to learn and practice on a regular basis.

First, I have to add a disclaimer: Use what I write here at your own risk and responsibility. Unfortunately, people occasionally make mistakes (it’s part of the learning process), but I can't assume risk for their errors, nor can I assume risk for my mis-communications. If you agree, then read on! If not, well, just ignore this post!

My personal philosophy in authoring this post is to encourage others to try things that other people do. Welding is one of those “things”. It is not hard “thing” to learn. – it just takes a basic understanding of the proper procedures and a little practice.

Step 1: Safety
But “first things first” as they say. The FIRST, and most important “thing”, is to be safe: - Make certain that anything in the area around you that could possibly ignite is removed entirely from that area. “Welding” means heat, sparks and more sparks. Things that could burn, will burn. And yes, that includes your clothing and skin, if you’re not careful!

You must wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants without cuffs (non-flammable, like cotton) and leather welding gloves. - A good eye shield or welding hood must be used.
Get a fire extinguisher and always have it nearby for immediate use in that event it is necessary.
NEVER MIG or ARC weld where water will be in contact with you or the surfaces you are welding. This will electrocute you - welding YOU rather then METAL!
Use proper ventilation, as the fumes are harmful if welding in an un-vented area. I usually leave the garage door open when welding and then take a break away from the area till they expelled.
Disconnect any and all major electrical components from the car, like the battery, the alternator, etc. before attaching the welder. If you weld with these attached, you might destroy them.

You must wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants without cuffs (non-flammable, like cotton) and leather welding gloves. - A good eye shield or welding hood must be used.
Get a fire extinguisher and always have it nearby for immediate use in that event it is necessary.
NEVER MIG or ARC weld where water will be in contact with you or the surfaces you are welding. This will electrocute you - welding YOU rather then METAL!
Use proper ventilation, as the fumes are harmful if welding in an un-vented area. I usually leave the garage door open when welding and then take a break away from the area till they expelled.
Disconnect any and all major electrical components from the car, like the battery, the alternator, etc. before attaching the welder. If you weld with these attached, you might destroy them.

OK. So we have the safety bases covered (i.e. you won’t burn up, your car won’t ignite, your garage will be intact after you start welding – and you'll have a
fire extinguisher handy in case they do :-)

Step 2 – Getting Ready to Practice
When you are ready to start, practice welding on some scrap metal that is close to the thickness of the body part you are going to repair. This is usually 20 or 22 gauge “stock material” which is available at auto body parts stores, auto recyclers and metal scrap yards. It is cheap. Buy a lot of it. Then buy some more. This practice is essential and will show up in your final effort. NEVER - and I mean NEVER - practice on what you intend to repair. Practice materials are cheap – your car is not (nor is paying someone else to fix it!). And, by the way, practicing on cheap stock is kind of fun without the fear of hurting anything.

Step 3 – The Welding System
A MIG welder has 2 cables. One of them is the ground. It looks like an alligator toothed clamp – like car “jumper cables”. This lead must be attached either to the metal you intend to weld, or near the piece you are welding for proper grounding. MIG welders work on current flow, so don’t attach the ground at one end of the car and try to weld at the other end. The current would have to pass the entire length of the car – impeding the “arc” (more on this later). The most important point here is not begin welding without this cable attached near the point of welding.

The other lead from the MIG welder is the “business end” that has the electrode and it’s handle with the “welder on” and wire feed button (also, the tip will have a gas outlet if your MIG uses tanks). When you press the button, wire (and gas, with a MIG with tanks) will be fed from a spool in the machine through the feed line and to the handle you hold in your hand and, as importantly - electricity will flow from that electrode. Don’t touch it when the button is on!

Just a short note about the different types of MIG systems – “gas” and “gas-less”. A MIG with a tank attachment will force CO2/Argon into the arc as the weld is being created. This gas help keep the air surrounding the weld uniform – creating a better weld in the process. The second system (“gas-less”) uses a shielded wire electrode. The outer coating of this shielded wire creates its own gas as it burns in much the same way a tank provides a gas source. Either system is fine for light body work!

Step 4 – Preparing the Surface
Electricity is a funny thing – it travels through clean metal best. It doesn’t like rust, oil, grease or other contaminants. Therefore, preparing the surfaces to weld is as important as the weld itself. To prepare the surfaces, cut out all the rust and use a wire brush to clean all the surfaces to be welded so that they are bright and shiny. If parts need to be primed, 3M makes a product called “weld-through primer” which will conduct the electrical current while providing protection to the bare metal. Follow the directions on the label and your finished welds will look professional from the start.

Step 5 – Your First Weld
OK, so get on the proper attire, get your gloves, get your eye protection handy. Ready? Let’s go:

First, the procedure is pretty simple - when you press the switch on the handle, you will strike an “arc” (an electrical contact) between the metal and the electrode protruding from your welding). To start this arc (kinda like lighting a match) hold the electrode about 1/8" from the metal surface to be welded. Once the arc is lit, a lot of stuff happens pretty quickly – the metal gets really hot (molten), new metal is fed from the electrode, and a “puddle” forms on the work pieces. This puddle is molten steel and is actually your weld. In reality, when you weld, you are joining metals within this “puddle” and you’re your welding talent is gauged by your ability to control that puddle. Really, its that simple (or that difficult, depending on your level of optimism at the moment…)

So go ahead - try it. By the way, at precisely the moment you strike the arc, the hooded shield that protects your eyes must be pulled into place – or you won’t see a thing. The bright light will hurt your eyes (not a good thing as you will see “stars” for days or worse, could cause more permanent eye damage.). You might want to practice just pulling the hood into place when you touch the metal without power on until you feel your eyes will be safe from the light. Again, this is imperative for eye protection. Practice doing this until you feel comfortable that it is done correctly. Another option is to hold the electrode in place, pull on the hood, and then start the arc. Either is fine as long as your eyes are covered when you begin to weld. (BTW: You will see everything as you weld even though you can’t see through the shield under natural light. The welding process is REALLY bright. And before raising the shield, make certain that you move the tip away from the grounded metal to stop welding.)

Step 6 – Techniques and Welds Types
My specific technique is to weld in short welds. Generally about 1/8" spots. Start by doing one in the middle of the entire length. Next tack each end. Then eyeball a spot midway between the middle spot weld and the end. Do the other direction likewise. This is called stitching. It maintains the straightness of what you are welding. Do this until you have a line of spots from one end to the other. Don't concentrate too much heat in one spot is the idea. Let the entire work piece cool after stiching. (I drink a coke or whatever and come back and inspect of what I have done during the previous session - typically, I consume a case of the stuff on really big jobs :-).

Spot or Tack Welding: To create a tack, hold the electrode in an area for no more than 2 or 3 seconds. Hold tip in one spot about 1/8" above the metal. Too long will burn a hole in metal. Proceed to next position for the next tack or spot, on and on. Spot and tack welding can be done on a seam or though holes made in the overlaid stock to be attached.

Creating A Seam or Butt Weld: When you are doing long seams, your hand motion will be in small oval movements. These movements are like small circular motions away from you one side on the work piece and toward you on the other. Remember that you are actually moving a molten puddle of metal along a predetermined path. Think of it a “fanning or pulling a drop of water” – it’s pretty much the same principle. Keep repeating this motion into the joining metals about 1/8" to 3/16" from the top of previous circular always working toward your standing position. Never do this type weld without tacking the entire length with spots no more than 6" apart maximum. Here is the best diagram I can draw in e-mail:

you handle = + positive lead
_______\__________ <-----direction of welding motion
metal = -- ground lead

BTW: A solid weld along the seam is not always necessary. Use what you see on the part that you are going to be repairing on the 914 to be a practical guide on which weld type to use. And remember, heat will distort metal. Too much is worse than too little. It will also weaken the metal. Dwelling too long at one point will burn a hole that will have to be welded later to accomplish good appearing work as you will want your 914 to have.

Summary - a short version of the procedures

Put gloves on.
Clamp metal to be welded with c-clamps to retain their movement.
Clamp the ground to the metal.
Set the amperage switch on the welder to proper amps. Should be instructions that came with your welding system.
Turn on welding machine.
Have shield on and comfortable fit.
Stand or sit where you see the 2 pieces of metal you will join by welding are directly in front of you and be prepared to pull shield over your eyes at the precise moment of contact.
Now, position the handle with tip about 1/8" from the surface of the metal and along the joining edges of the 2 pieces of metal, pull shield down quickly with one hand while pressing the switch on the handle with the hand that holds it.
Bright glow on contact begins the welding process. Extremely HOT. Never touch what you are welding with bare hands. It will burn your hand and if like me, cause you to swear.
Work slowly and never get in a hurry. Speed will come with experience.
You should keep this 1/8" gap between the metal and the tip constant and move the tip in a direction toward you along the gap and maintain about a 15 or 20 degree angle of the handle in relation to the working surfaces.

You can do it. Practice, practice, practice. And Have FUN with it! Wishing you success.

Mike Cooley

This technical article is made possible solely through the support of Pelican Parts. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.

BMW e34 Heater valve

2007-11-20T21:27:00.003-08:00

	Cost: $50 used $140 new Difficulty: Time: 1 hour
Procedure and pictures courtesy of Scott E.
Bmw E34 and E32 have a funny tendency to loose the heat in the middle of winter... If this happens to you time to check the heater valve. Failure syndromes: • Heater only works when drivers dial is all the way to the right (Max. setting) Other settings only produce unheated air from vents. Problem: Heater valves stuck.
Procedure
1. Open hood 2. Remove plastic cover to heater valves (located next to fuse box on firewall) 3. Loosen all six screws on solenoid valve. 4. Tap on both solenoid valves with hammer while an assistant turns the drivers side temperature dial back and forth. 5. You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking now. 6. Tighten all six screws and replace plastic cover. 7. If this doesn’t work you may need to remove and clean the valves or perhaps replace them. 8. If this doesn't work, change the heater valve and the auxiliary pump. This is an easy task, you need to remove the 4 bolts on top of the heater valve, disconnect the wires and then pull the valve out. You don't need to remove the auxiliary pump as they will be both pulled out together. Use needle noise vice grips to pinch the hoses if you don't want to loose all your coolant. This is a tight spot to remove the valve but it will come out.

BMW e34 Speed sensor

2007-11-20T21:27:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $50 Difficulty:

The Speed sensor on the BMW E34 is located at the back of the differential housing in an inaccessible location... follow the only wire. You will find a lot of dirt and grease over there, so be prepared and wear protective glasses and gloves. Failure syndromes: • Erratic or no speedometer, erratic or no speed control, erratic wipers functioning.
Procedure Step by step procedure
Protective glasses WD 40, the screws might be rusted 3/8" Ratchet, extensions and u-joints 10 mm socket and open wrench 1. Place the rear of the car on jacks or use a ramp, then spray the old sensor two screws with WD40. Now that you have found where the screws are... you know that removing them is going to be tricky. If you are not a patient person, grab your phone and call the dealer... 2. After approximately 1 hour, you have removed the screws. Try to clean your sensor, it might work again (it didn't work for me). If cleaning it does not work, just change the sensor. 3. Tighten the screw with a 10mm open wrench then finish with the ratchet and extensions. Best advice : Be patient... Addition from: Bob K. The hard part is getting to the bottom screw, IMO. Having a heckuva time getting it started after removal, I decided to do the following: . support the differential with a hydraulic jack . remove the two bolts (19mm head) holding the rear of the diff to the suspension member . drop the diff about an inch or less The issue is ensuring that the diff is supported. What dropping the diff does is give enough room to get a direct angle on the bolt, both for removal and replacement. A caveat is to do the removal and replacement of the top bolt before and after the diff drop, respectively. Also, I found that my 3/8" drive sockets were a tad thick for the available clearance. I used 1/4" hardware with a 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor. Regardless, it certainly is a job that requires patience. Addition from Ivan C. Thought you might want to know, I replaced my speed sensor and while it was time consuming, it was really not too difficult. Most of the time was de-greasing and cleaning area first. I used 1/4" vs 3/8" tools: 10mm open wrench, 1/4" 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet with 3" and 5" extensions and "u" joint. and had no problem reaching lower and upper bolts as follows: Upper bolt: Socket drive to 5" extension to U joint to 3" extension with 10mm socket: between gas tank shield and suspension / diff Lower bolt: Socket drive to 3" extension to U joint with 10mm socket: between suspension and diff

BMW e34 AFM Adjustment

2007-11-20T21:26:00.005-08:00

	Cost: none Difficulty: Time: 40min
Picture courtesy of Jr England - Procedure courtesy of Bill R.
Idle problems can be caused by an Air Flowmeter (therafter AFM) out of adjustment. Don't attempt to adjust your AFM without an exhaust gas analyser.
Procedure
Hex wrench. Exhaust gaz analyser. 1. With the engine off: check the throttle body butterfly gap. It have 0.002" gap with a feeler gauge at the bottom of the butterfly. Stick a 0.002" gauge in the open throttle plate, let the plate close with the gauge down at the bottom and see how much drag you get removing it. Set the gap with the throttle stop if needed. 2. Warm up the car then shut it off. 3. Disconnect the O2 sensor at the connection. (round black connector). 4. Restart the car and before the catalytic converter gets hot (which it won't with the car just idling) insert the gas analyser in the tailpipe. 5. Adjust the AFF screw the the allowable tolerances, from 0.2 to 1.2. Bill's car is setup to 0.9 to 1.0 and it seems to give a better idle. It also helps get ride of a slight hesitation when accelerating. The AFM can be turned over to locate the screw then you can turn it back a little bit. (If you turn it completely, you won't be able to insert the hex wrench). The screw controls how much air bypasses the flapper on the afm. By screwing it in, less air bypasses and it forces the flapper to move further sending a different signal to the dme. Turn the screw in to richen the mixture and out to lean it.. If you plan on doing it without a gaz analyser: Gradually turn the adjusting screw in very small increments and wait about 30 seconds after wach adjustment to see what it does to the idle. Don't adjust it more than one turn in either direction.

BMW e34 Engine mounts

2007-11-20T21:26:00.003-08:00

	Cost: $50 Difficulty: except V8... Time: 45min, V8: 3 hours

On the BMW E34 / E32, the engine mounts filter the vibrations of the engine. This is an easy job that is not described in the Bentley manual. Symptoms: • Engine shacking when idling. • Engine mounts leaking.
Procedure

17mm socket + extensions.
17mm closed end wrench
Floor jack and piece of wood
WD 40

Optional:
You might want to clean the grease that is accumulated at the front right of the engine before removing the engine mounts.

We are working one side at a time.

1. Remove the plastic cover under the engine bay. 2. Open the hood, and locate the left engine mount. Spray WD 40 on all the nuts. 3. The 17mm nut you are looking at is the toughest to remove because there is not a lot of room to swing a wrench, with extensions and u-joint you will be able to break it free.
	4. The rest is easy, remove the 17mm bottom nut.
5. Now, place a floor jack under the oil pan along with a piece of wood. Remove the two 17mm nuts if not already done and jack the engine up until the engine mount is free.
	6. Remove the old mount and install the new one. 7. Lower the jack gently, watching the engine mount. Tighten the two nuts back.
8. Same thing for the right mount, but you can remove both nuts being under the car. The top one is removed with the 17mm closed end wrench.
	9. The procedure is the same as the right one.

540i engine and transmission mounts after less than 90 000miles...

V8: 530 - 540i: The easiest way when you work on the V8 is to have a lot of extentions and a u-joint.
For the right mount, you have place the windshield washer reservoir on the side and remove the air box. Then with at least 3 extentions and a u-joint you will be able to lossen the top 17mm bolt.
For the left side, you have to move the brake fluid reservoir on the side then guide the extensions, u-joint and 17mm socket to the bolt. It is a tight area, but I have done it. I have lifted both side at the same time.

Worse case, You can remove the alternator to get access to the engine mounts and try lifting the engine on one side at the time. This way the engine is not so much lifted but more like twisted and will balance to either the left or right of the car; it will come of the mount and that´s all you need. Lift the engine on the left, replace the mount on the left, lower the engine, lift the engine on the right, replace the mount on the right...

BMW e34 Fuel Pump replacement

2007-11-20T21:26:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $200+ Difficulty: Time: 1.5 - 2 hours
Procedure and Pictures courtesy of Derek Atkin
On the BMW E34 / E32, the fuel pump is a pretty important item. Symptoms: 1. Stumbling on acceleration 2. Hard Starting 3. Loss of power 4. Factory calls for 3.0 BAR (45 psi of fuel pressure), if your pump is not generating this much pressure it needs to be replaced. Fuel Pump: There is two models for the '89 535i: GFP 308 - (0 580 464 995) This pump has a small mounting bracket and the pump has a "barb style fitting" GFP 333 - (0 580 453 021) This pump has a large bracket and a simple barb fitting for the output hose.
Procedure

New fuel pump
New fuel filter
Five hose clamps
WD-40

1. Remove pressure from fuel system. Pull fuel pump fuse and run car until it stalls out. 2. Remove spare tire cover to gain access to black panel in trunk. 3. Remove black access panel
	3. Remove black access panel
4. Disconnect wiring harness and two fuel lines. If you car still has the factory pump you are going to need to cut the clamps off. Make sure you mark the hoses; if you switch the feed hose with the return hose you will have a problem. 5. Spray the 10mm bolts with WD-40 - Wait few minutes and then remove them.
	6. Carefully remove the sending unit; it is attached to the pump which sits down in the bottom of the tank. 7. There are two plastic tabs that secure the fuel pump to the housing mounted to the bottom of the tank. The tabs are on the left and right sides of the pump, if you squeeze them it should release the pump and allow the entire assembly to be removed.
8. Remove the electrical connections and cut the factory hose clamp off the old fuel pump.

9. The fuel pump itself is help in by four rubber bumpers. Carefully pry the unit out of the plastic holder.
	10. Install the new pump into the housing and restore the electrical connections. Some fuel pumps may not have the pulsation unit on the top of the pump, do not be alarmed. Attach the main feed hose to the fuel pump and secure with a hose clamp. Try to orient the main feed home in a similar fashion as the return line. This will prevent a kink when it is reinstalled in the tank.
11. Install the pump assembly back into the holder in the fuel tank, followed by the sending unit. 12. Tighten 10mm nuts in an even pattern. Do not over torque. 13. Connect fuel feed and return lines. Use new hose clamps. Connect electrical plug to fuel pump assembly. 14. Change fuel filter. Replace hose clamps if they are rusty. 15. Start car and check for leaks. 16. Take car for short test drive and recheck for leaks. 17. Oil 10mm nuts on top of fuel pump and put some engine oil on the fuel inlet tubes. This will help to prevent any further corrosion. 18. Replace access plate and install truck trim pieces.

BMW e34 M30 Headgasket

2007-11-20T21:25:00.002-08:00

	Cost: $300 or more.... Difficulty:

After two days at the Mosport track, I discovered some oil in the coolant. My headgasket failed. This procedure work for all Bmw M30 engine: 535i, 735i, 635i. First of all, find a good shop to work on your cylinder head and buy a Bentley manual. Symptoms: • Oil in the coolant. • White residue in the oil cap or oil stick. • Heavy white smoke (with a characteristic smell) at the muffler • Oil leak at the location of the headgasket
Procedure

All kind of wrenches and sockets
Torque wrench + angle torque meter
14 new cylinder head bolts
Gasket kit
Injector o'rings (except if you change them)
2 x fender covers

Gasket remover tool and spray
Throttle body cleaner
Engine cleaner
BMW coolant
Oil + oil filter
Good quality rags and air pressure.

Optional:
Vacuum hoses, fuel pressure regulator, cooling hoses, injectors, rotor + cap, spark plugs, starter, thermostat. Check the compression to see if you need a new engine...

1. Following the bentley manual procedure, remove everything out of the way and remove the cylinder head. I wanted to remove the head with the exhaust manifold, but the bolts to the exhaust line were rusty so I left the manifold in the car. I removed the head with the intake manifold
	2. With the head out of the car, remove the fuel rail, the injectors, intake manifold. 3. The cylinder head and intake manifold will be sent to a performance shop for ports enlargement, polishing and matching to the intake manifold. The valve guides will be changed and the cylinder head tested. 4. The intake manifold will be powder coated black.
5. Now you will have some time to clean all the different parts that are out of the car, injectors, throttle body... 6. Clean the top of the piston with a gasket scraper and the gasket surface. You must clean the holes in the engine block and remove any oil and water in those bolt holes. Cracking of blocks is common if the oil is not removed from the bottom of the bolt holes.
	7.Put the fuel rail, injectors with new seals, throttle body and intake manifold back on the cylinder head, then place the head back in the car. Unlike the picture, don't put the thermostat housing back on. It will be placed on the car when the timing chain housing will be in place. Off course while the head was at the shop you clean every single item that goes back onto the engine.
8.Once everything is connected (please double check), torque the head to the specified values: Add 50% BMW coolant and 50% distilled water then bleed the cooling system. Let the engine run 25min then torque the head 35 + 5 degree. (It will be warm).

Good links:
• Head Porting for the Do-It-Yourselfer
• M30 Head rebuidling
• Email Gordon for Powder coated parts.

Basic Head Modifications:
1. Intake and exhaust ports enlarged and shaped for max gas flow.
2. Combustion chambers contoured and smoothed for most efficient combustion.
3. Valve pockets relieved for max gas flow and valve seats ground to a precise 3-angle racing seat.
4. Entire head cleaned and stress-relieved.
5. Head-to-block surface milled true and head ports matched to manifold ports.
6. Chambers cc'd to equal volumes and domed for piston clearance and polished.

Optional Head Modifications for Racing Engines:
1. Valve guides chamfered flush with port walls.
2. Oversized valves installed and oversized valve seats installed.
3. Enlarge valve spring recesses to accept larger springs and shim valve springs to the correct installed height.

BMW e34 M20 Timing Belt

2007-11-20T21:25:00.001-08:00

	Cost: less then $60 Difficulty:

The older E30 325i and the older ('89-90) 525i have the M20 engine with the timing belt. This timing belt and its tensioner should be changed every 70,000 km Symptoms: • Oil timing belt or cracked one. • Time to change it
Procedure

BMW coolant + distilled water
Torque wrench
Timing belt
Tensioner
All the belts while you are at it
Camshaft seal

Gasket remover tool and spray

Optional:
Water pump, hoses, belts, thermostat

1. Following the Bentley manual procedure page 118-1.
	2. Loosen the bolts on the waterpump pulley, remove all the belts, best time to change all of them. Remove the fan clutch (32mm wrench and don't forget that the threads on the fan clutch are left hand threads). Remove the radiator shroud.
3. Remove the 10mm bolts on the waterpump pulley and remove the pulley.
4. With the engine cold, remove the plug from the bottom of the radiator and the bolt below cylinder #6 on the engine block to drain the coolant. You can remove the hoses and change them if you want. Remove the metal hose that you can see on the picture #3. It is attached with two bolts on each side.
	5. Remove the distributor cap cover, distributor cap and rotor Remove the bracket from the alternator to the upper timing belt cover (upper bracket). Remove the bolts from the timing belt cover and remove it.
6. Using a 22mm socket, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the engine is at Top Dead Center. You have to line up the marks on the cylinder head with the mark on the camshaft pulley. (See picture on the Bentley manual.)
	7. Remove the 6 bolts that holds the lower pulley then remove the 22mm bolt and the pulley. You can now remove the last bolts on the lower timing belt cover and remove the cover.
8. Image from the top
	9. Remove the bolt in the center of the camshaft pulley. Loosen the upper bolt that holds the tensioner. Loosen the tensioner lower bolt at the base of the long stud. Using a screwdriver, push the tensioner from the top to release the tension then tighten the upper bolt. Remove the timing belt.
10. Remove the camshaft pulley then the two bolts holding the camshaft seal cover.
	10. Remove the cover then remove the old seal without damaging the cover, clean everything.
11. Part# for the different seals
	12. You can remove the water pump while you are at it and clean everything in the process.
13. Doesn't that look better??? Change the tensioner, put the new one in place, (noticed that the tensioner is all the way to the left). Install the camshaft pulley then make sure that the camshaft pulley marks match the marks on the cylinder head. Make sure that the mark on the crankshaft hub aligns with the one on the engine. (See Bentley picture).
	14. Install the new timing belt beginning with the crankshaft pulley in a counterclockwise direction without slack. All the belt slack should be at the tensioner. When the belt is in place, slowly loosen the upper bolt of the tensioner to tighten the belt. Using the crankshaft 22mm bolt, turn the engine for two full revolutions until the marks match again. Make sure that the camshaft pulley marks are aligned along with the marks on the crankshaft hub. If everything is right, torque the upper then lower tensioner bolt (16 ft-lb). Time to reinstall everything with new belts.
Be very careful with the crankshaft position sensor (CPS), if the cable isn't where it is suppose to be, it will be cut by the waterpump pulley... Then you are going to spend a lot of time on diagnostic, why the car doesn't start... if this piece is broken, the car will NEVER start.
	Add 50% BMW coolant and 50% distilled water then bleed the cooling system. All done, if you didn't do any mistakes, the car should start right away... else, you might have a major problem on your hand. Another thing to pay attention to: the hose that is behind the metal bracket, make sure that it is attached with the OEM clamp to the bracket Mine wasn't and it touched the cooling fan, until a leak appears... at 400 miles from my house... (A hose that looked the same was put into place and I was able to go back home).

BMW e34 Valve adjustment

2007-11-20T21:23:00.002-08:00

	Cost: $10 Difficulty: Time: 1-2 hours

Valve adjustment Bmw E34/E32 (M20 - M30) is pretty simple but takes some time. Be patient... The valve clearance is the same for the exhaust and the intake. Adjustment sequence: 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Procedure
Piece of metal wire hanger, allen wrench or valve adjusting tool. M20: 0.25mm (0.010") angled feeler gauge. M30: 0.30mm (0.012") angled feeler gauge. New head cover gasket. 1. Place the car on ramps or stands the night before. Work on the engine when cold, do not start it in the morning 525i (M20) 2. Remove the intake manifold bracket, disconnect the breather hose from the cover then remove the 8 nuts holding the cover and remove it. 535i (M30) 2. Remove the air filter housing, remove the idle control valve, disconnect the connector from the air flow sensor then remove it (careful the clips can be lost easily). Remove the ignition harness out of the way. Disconnect the breather hose from the cover. Remove the nuts and the cover. IMPORTANT: M30 (535i-735i-635i) you have to tighten the oil spray bar bolts! And oil pan bolts. There is an improved version of the camshaft oiler bar banjo bolts which incorporates locking compound on the threads: p/n 11 42 1 738 621 (must be installed in clean dry threads). Two special seal washers are required for each banjo bolt, p/n 11 42 1 252 343. The new style bolts identified by a circular groove cut into the bolt head require no retorquing after initial installation (11-13Nm or 8-10 ft-lb of torque). One time sue only. 3. Remove all the spark plugs (good time to change or re-gap them). 4. The work out starts: turn the crankshaft until the no 1 cylinder's camshaft lobes are pointing downward, valve fully closed (cylinder 1 is the closest to the radiator).

	5. Measure the valve clearance of the intake and exhaust valves with the feeler gauge. If the value is correct, don't touch it. To adjust it, loosen the 10mm nut with an open wrench and rotate the eccentric until you reach the value, tighten the nut and check the value again. Trick: use the size below the feeler gauge it should be easy to pull through and the size above shouldn't fit at all.
6. Turn the crankshaft 1/3 of a turn and move to the next set of valve.
7. When you have finish all the valves, recheck the adjustment of all the valves again (I am not joking...) 8. Now you can clean the ICV, the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and the head cover. 9. Installation is the reverse of removal, don't forget to change the head cover gasket. A trick from Brent Berger: There is no need to use a 36mm socket on the counter balancer to rotate the camshaft, which first requires removing the radiator fan and housing to gain access. All that is needed is a 32mm open end wrench on the radiator fan nut. With all the spark plugs removed, and the fan belt tight, it was very easy to turn the counter balancer and camshaft via the fan nut (clockwise) to set all the valves. This would have helped me greatly if I would have known ahead of time ( I spent a couple days rounding up the very large socket I thought was needed). I hope others will benifit from my experience.

BMW e34 M60 spark plugs replacement

2007-11-20T21:23:00.001-08:00

	Cost: Difficulty: Time: 45min
Procedure and Pictures courtesy of Hans Lain
This procedure for the V8 BMW 540i and 530i is pretty simple. You might want to change the valve cover gasket while you are at it of if your spark plugs have a lot of oil on them.
Procedure


1. To access the spark plugs for removal, you first need to remove some plastic housing on the engine. To begin, you must remove the (4) engine cover nut caps and the (2) ignition coil/spark plug cover nut caps to expose the nuts for removal.
	2. After removing the nuts securing the engine and ignition coil / spark plug covers, you next need to slide the grommet on the throttle cable entering the front of the engine cover out of the engine cover so the cable can drop downwards out of the hole in the cover when the cover is lifted.

3. The cover can then be lifted upwards (see picture above) to allow for removal of the ignition coil/spark plug cover.

4. After you have removed the ignition coil / spark plug cover, you will now have access to the ignition coils and ultimately the spark plugs. As you can see below, (2) nuts secure the ignition coil in place. To remove the ignition coil, first, loosen and remove these nuts. Note that the ignition coil springs up slightly as you loosen both nuts - there is a spring inside of the ignition coil stem that makes contact with the spark plug. In the secured position, this spring is slightly compressed and pushing against the spark plug and thus the coil rises up slightly as you loosen the ignition coil nuts. After you have removed the nuts, you need to next disconnect the ignition coil harness from the ignition coil. This is done by sliding the harness release/securing latch outwards to unlock the harness, it can be unplugged from the ignition coil and the coil can then be removed.

As you can see above, the spark plug is now accessible for removal/replacement. Reinstallation is the opposite of removal. note -the OEM spark plug for this engine does not have an adjustable gap.

BMW e34 O2 sensor

2007-11-20T21:19:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $80 Difficulty:

The Bmw Oxygen sensor measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust after combustion and signals the computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture. Poor performance, poor fuel economy and high emissions are the failure syndromes. Check this great O2 sensor FAQ.
Procedure
02 sensor socket (can be purchased at Autozone) Lot's of WD 40 Rachet, extensions and u-joints Anti seize compound Place the front of the car on jacks or use a ramp, then spray the old sensor with a lot of WD40 (with cold exhaust). Let it sit for awhile then you can remove the sensor with the sensor socket some extensions and u-joints. Don't forget to apply a coat of anti-seize compound on the new sensor threads. NOT on the tip!!! In any model, you don't have to remove any part of the exhaust line.

525i
M20 : The O2 sensor is located below the #6 cylinder on the front of the exhaust pipe. The connector is located on the right-hand rear of the engine, near the electronics box. M50 : The O2 sensor is located at the front of the catalytic converter. The connector is located on the left-hand side of the engine, below the starter.

530i - 540i
The M60 engine uses two O2 sensors located at the front of the catalytic converters. The connector is located beneath the car under the transmission.

535i
The 535i uses a single O2 sensor located at the front of the catalytic converter under the car. The connector is located at the rear of the engine compartment, lower left-hand side.

BMW e34 Oil change

2007-11-20T21:18:00.000-08:00

Oil service
The oil service is the easiest of the three BMW E34 maintenances. Check this link to create your own tool to reset any BMW service lights. Make a copy of the oil service sheet. Never go to the cheap oil change shop for your Bmw E34. If you want the work done the right way: do it yourself!!!
Procedure
New synthetic oil (Mobil 1 synthetic or equivalent) New oil filter + O'rings (if applicable) Clean rags + gloves 17mm closed end wrench 1. Run the engine to warm it, then turn it off. 2. Place a drain pan under the plug then loosen the drain plug ("carefull", the oil is pretty warm). 3. Let the oil drain and change the oil filter during this time: M20: position another drain pan or lots of rags under the filter then loosen it by turning clockwise. Wipe the oil filter mounting, lubricate the new filter gasket with some fresh oil. Install filter by hand until gasket in contact with flange then turn the filter another 1/2 turn. Picture from Hans Lain. Other engines: Loosen oil filter cover, prepare lots of rags around the filter housing. Remove the old filter and install the new one. Remove old O'rings and replace them with the new ones after lubricating them with fresh oil. Replace the cover (do not overtighten it). 4. Replace the drain plug, clean around it (easier to find if there is leak afterwards). 5. Refill the engine with new oil. 6. Start the engine (the oil light might take longer than before to switch off), let it warm up and check for leaks.

Capacity
525i M20: 4.25 liters (5.0 US qt.) 525i M50 / 535i: 5.75 liters (6.1 US qt.) 530i / 540i: 7.50 liters (8.0 US qt.) Viscosity: Cold climate: 5W-30 Mild climate: 10W-30 Warm or hot climate: 15W-50

Torques
Oil drain plug: M12 bolt = 25 Nm (18 ft-lb) M22 bolt = 60 Nm (44 ft-lb)

BMW e34 Spark plugs

2007-11-20T21:16:00.002-08:00

	Cost: $20 Difficulty: Time: 30min

A spark plug is an important part of the ignition system as it produces the spark that ignites the petrol/air mixture in the engine's cylinder. The spark plug can have a dramatic effect on the performance of the engine, it must therefore be checked on a regular basis to maintain the performance of the engine. Below are some hints on the correct replacement procedure for spark plugs.
Procedure
Spark plug socket or spark plug tool Rachet, extensions and u-joints if needed New spark plugs 1- Identify which spark plug lead fits which cylinder. A suggestion is to attach numbered tags to the respective leads if no other identification is available. 2- Pull the connectors off the plugs. Do not pull on the cable. 3- Ensure that the spark plug tool is securely fitted before trying to remove the plug. 4- Check the gap on the new plugs, see below. 5- Fit the new plugs with a little piece of plastic tube and tighten to finger tight. 6- Using a spark plug tool, tighten the plugs between ½ and ¾ of a turn from finger tight. Refer to the owner's manual for torque specifications. 7- Fit the plug connectors in the correct firing sequence and ensure they are securely attached to the plugs. 8- Start the engine. If it does not run smoothly, repeat step 1 to 7 and check that the plugs have not been damaged during tightening. Check ignition leads and replace if necessary, also check for cracked insulators, air gap etc.
Spark plugs appearance
Check this website that explains eveything about how to read spark plugs with pictures.
Bosch platinum +4
Can you install Bosh platinum +4 in your car? Hummmm, I don't know, basically everyone has a different opinion if this is good or bad for the engine, and if this gives more power or a smoother idle... If you feel like wasting some money (these are not cheap), you can try them... and send me an e-mail if it is working.
Part numbers
525i (89-90) M20 - 535i Regular Bosch W8LCR Gap: 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in) (On the 535i, set them slightly larger to 0.86-0.91mm (0.034-0.036in to help improve the idle.) Platinum Bosh W8LPR (alternate choice) 525i (91 on) M50 - 530i - 540i Bosch F7 LDCR Non adjustable

BMW e34 Integrated Garage Door Opener

2007-11-20T21:16:00.001-08:00

Do you have a radar detector but don't like how it looks sitting on your dash or visor? Maybe you live in a location where radar detectors are illegal? Well, here is a little write-up I did for a stealth install of my radar detector.

DISCLAIMER: This modification is to be followed and used at the sole risk of the individual performing it. When performing any modifications, there will always be the risk of damage to the car. MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK. Read the procedure carefully and be sure that you feel comfortable with the modification before you begin. Now on to the fun stuff!!

Garage Door Opener Remote: This is the original garage door opener remote. The garage door opener is made by Genie and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature. Opening the remote was easy and involved removing a few screws on the back of the case.

Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Top): This is a shot of the actual circuit board inside the case of the remote. The center blue button is the one I tapped for use in the car. The wires you see are what I soldered to the circuit board and will be discussed in more detail later.

Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Bottom): This a bottom shot of the circuit board. Again, the wires I soldered to the circuit board will be discussed a little later.

Soldered Leads to New Switch: This is a close up of where I soldered the two wires for the push button switch that I used. Not the prettiest soldering job, but it works. The push button I used simply shorts the same contacts as the button on the remote. Be careful not to burn the circuit board when applying the solder.

Soldered Power Leads to Circuit Board: This is a close up of where I soldered the leads that would power the remote from the car. This is not necessary, since a battery would still work, but I did not want to pull the dash apart every time I needed to change a battery. This particular remote was a 12 volt remote. If you are trying this with a remote that requires 9 volts an added circuit will be required to provide the proper voltage from the car. Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the leads. I also ended up using the battery terminals as wire guides for added support to the soldered power leads, an unexpected bonus!

Fog Light Switch Assembly: The location I mounted my new switch was just below the fog light button. This is a shot of the fog light switch assembly removed from the headlight switch/vent assembly (prior to the installation of the new garage door opener switch), it will pop out. The lower portion of the switch assembly is actually hollow and will be drilled to mount the new switch. Removal of the headlight switch/vent assembly is discussed a little later.

Fog Light Switch Assembly Taken Apart: This is a shot of the switch assembly taken apart prior to drilling. You will notice 4 tabs that hold the switch assembly together. Use a small, pointy object to slowly and carefully pry the switch apart. When it comes apart, there will be two tiny springs that will come out. Don't lose these springs since they are required for the fog light switch to function properly. When putting the switch back together, re-insert the springs and carefully snap the assembly back together, verifying proper fog light switch mechanical operation.

Another Shot of the Fog Light Switch Assembly: Here is another shot of the fog light switch assembly taken apart to show where I will drill the hole to accept the new switch for the garage door opener. The top part is the existing fog light switch. The bottom is where I will be drilling the new hole. Notice the location of the two springs mentioned earlier. This is where they need to be prior to fog light switch re-assembly.

Switch Used for This Install: This is the switch I used for the install. It is a simple push button type switch. The cost was less than $2 from Radio Shack.

Fog Light Switch Assembly After Hole Was Drilled: This is a frontal view of the switch assembly after it was drilled. I used a Dremel Tool for this, slowly widening the hole. Be sure to take it slow and check for proper fit of the switch as you go along. You don't want to make the hole too big for the new switch.

Circuit Board Inside the Dash: This is the circuit board installed inside the car (the area behind the headlight switch/vent). I used some velcro to keep it in place in there. To remove the headlight switch/vent assembly, there is a screw that is directly beneath it on the dash (you can't miss it). Once the screw is out, gently pull the headlight switch/vent assembly out. Before you can pull the assembly out entirely, you need to disconnect the harness to the headlight switch (round) and the fog light switch (square, it is visible in this picture).

Routing of Switch Wires: On the fog light switch harness, there are two unused holes. Route the wires for the new switch through these holes as shown. The power lead (red) was spliced to a constant 12V power source and the ground lead (black) was spliced to a ground wire. Both wires were on the headlight switch harness (constant 12V - red/white wire, ground - brown wire). Be sure to verify your wire colors for your car. You can also see the circular harness for the headlight switch in the background.

Headlight Switch/Vent Assembly Back in the Dash: This is a shot of the headlight/vent assembly back in the dash with the wires for the new switch hanging out. I decided to keep the excess slack to make future removal of the headlight/vent assembly easier. To reconnect the headlight switch harness, I found it easier to remove the headlight switch form the assembly. To do this, remove the outer switch cap by pulling towards you. Once the cap is off, you will notice a nut. Unscrew the nut and remove the headlight switch. Reconnect the harness and re-install the headlight switch (of course, don't forget to reconnect the fog light switch harness!).

The Finished Product: Here is the finished product. I soldered the end of the leads to the new switch. I then pushed back the excess wire into the dash and snapped the switch into the fog light switch assembly. Now go play with your garage door opener!

BMW e34 Brake & clutch switches

2007-11-20T21:15:00.001-08:00

	Cost: Cheap Difficulty: Time: 30min
E34 clutch switch (white) - brake switch (black)
On the BMW E34 the clutch and brake light switches are located under the dash, above the pedals. RHD car have the switch on the opposite side-passenger side (left hand side). the switch is not located on the brake pedal. Failure syndromes: • Erratic or no cruise control for clutch switch. • Erratic or no cruise control, erratic or no functioning of brake lights for brake light switch.
Procedure
Screwdrivers Pliers 1. You need to remove the screws that hold the plastic panel on underneath the steering column (I think there are about 4 of them). Get a good flashlight a screwdriver and good pair of pliers. The brake light switch is under the top of the brake pedal arm, under the dash. 2. Examine the switch that you got from the dealer so you know how it works. The red tab, when pressed down, locks it into place. So, the last step before buttoning everything down is to press the red tab down to lock the switch in place. The best way to get the old switch out is to grab your pair of pliers and break off the red tab or the entire white button. Then it is easy to pull out once you have the wiring harness disconnected. 3. To make things easier, I would park the car on a lever surface so you can have the car in the on position. In order to get the old switch out, you need to have the brake pedal depressed as far as possible. If the car is off, the brake pedal stiffens up and makes removal of the switch rather difficult. The switch is engaged when the pedal is released, so the pedal needs to be depressed to release the switch. 4. Pop in the new switch, connect wiring harness then re-install panel under the steering column.

BMW e34 Dashboard capacitors

2007-11-20T21:14:00.004-08:00

Cost: $10

Difficulty:

Time: 1h30

Click on the picture to see location of screws and capacitors (Thanks to Bill Rickard)

Earlier Bmw E34s seem to have a problem with the dashboard behavior. This is generally caused by the instrument cluster capacitors that need to be changed.

Check this page if you need to change the bulbs or remove the aibarg. If your instrument cluster doesn't look like that and isn't held by screws, then follow this instructions.

Failure syndromes:
• Temperature, fuel gauges and LCD indicator not working when cold.
• Erratic functioning of the dashboard gauges and lights.

Procedure

Phillips screwdriver.
Soldering iron.
New capacitors and new bulbs.

1. Disconnect the battery!
2. If they your steering wheel extend, you should be able to get the dash module out without having to remove the steering wheel. Extend it all the way out, and then you should be able to slide it out of the same side as the turn indicator, takes a little wiggle, but it works perfectly.
3. Else, you will have to remove the steering wheel, be extremely careful if your car is equipped with airbags (see Bentley manual). You can remove the the plastic cover under the steering wheel and access the 2 bolts that hold the steering column up. Remove those bolts and the column will drop enough for you to access the instrument cluster, you can set off the airbag with this method!
4. Remove the instrument cluster and open it.
5. Click in the picture, the yellow arrows are the capacitor which go bad, the red arrows are the screws which must be removed and the blue arrows are the retaining clips which must be carefully pried back. Once that is done you can remove the glue on the edges of the board and remove the board.
6. Check the values printed on the side of each capacitors (like 220mF 40V). It has been suggested to replace them with 105°C capacitor but 85°C will work fine.
7. But sure to take note where each capacitor is located. Check polarity when removing and installing the capacitors or you will damage your board. Capacitors are always marked as far as negative and positive.
8. Use a desoldering tool to remove the old capacitors and solder the new ones without touching other connections on the board.
9. You should change all the light bulbs while you have the cluster open!
10. Recoat the bottom of the board with an insulating varnish for the circuit board and reassemble.

Some capacitors don't have a value printed on them: EPJ 22-40 W5 = 22 microfarad and 40 volt. (Can be replaced with 50V ones.)

Bulbs part # from Stewart Ebrat:
- 12V3W (07.11.9.978.372) Quantity: 3
- 12V1.5W (62.11.1.391.260) Quantity: 6
- 12V1.2W (62.13.1.383.311) Quantity: 10 (Note same for OBC)
- OBC Light is #62 13 1 383 311 quantity: 3
- Heat and fan panel light: p/n 62 11 1 391 777 Quantity: 1

A thought on Instrument clusters.
There is two model of instrument clusters, one from built date: '88- Feb 89 with the coding plug in the wiring harness (brown connector), and another one after '90, the coding plug is inside the instrument cluster.
Both clusters boards are different inside and the bulbs are also different. The new instrument cluster can be used in place of the older one, but the older one won't work with the newer BMW E34 because there will be no coding plugs. The connectors are at different locations on the newer cluster, but this doesn't affect the functioning.

Coding Plugs (from Bill R.)
It controls the odometer reading, miles/kilometer/ some of the gauge functions as well. When replacing it you need all the numbers that appear when you do the self test on the instrument cluster. That will tell the dealer which version hardware/sofware you have. You also must disconnect all connectors on the back of the dash cluster with the battery disconnected and wait a few minutes for all residual power to drain to keep from damaging the memory on the coding plug. THIS is a must. Also since the obc shares data with the coding plug, the plug to the obc on the back of it must be disconnected and wait at least one minute after the coding plug has been changed.
This will reset the obc for the new coding plug.
To switch from km to miles, you need to change the coding plug.

	Coding plug
Images courtesy of Hannu Myllynpää

Coding plugs and Fuel / Temperature Gauges: (Thank to Bill)
After changing the capacitors, the the gas gauge and temp gauge were still dead.
I changed the instrument cluster and I wanted to maintain the odometer reading, so changed out the non volatile module and it made the gas gauge and temp gauge quit. I put the new one back in and it worked. So it seems that the coding plug can get corrupted and affect the gauges also.

Capacitors don't solve it all: (Stewart Ebrat)
Have just solves 3 month long problem of no odometer, trip meter, fuel gauge, service lights, economy gauge and message board. Changed capacitors to no avail, searched Bruno’s site as well as the forum's archive for any other answers but was left disappointed. Only explanation was capacitors. Finally took car to specialist Euro auto electrician who changed the whole box below instrument cluster where globes and readout lcd's are located. Luckily I did not change instrument cluster. Total cost for labor and new box $450 AUD ($300 USD) and all fixed. Box is actually second hand (stealer wants $1200 AUD for new) but came with 24 mth warranty. Capacitors are not the only cause of this problem. Hope this can help some other board members avoid the frustration I experienced.

BMW e34 Fan blower

2007-11-20T21:14:00.003-08:00

Cost: $40 - $130

Difficulty:

Time: 30min.

The speed of the fan blower is controlled through two types of setups on the BMW E34: the final stage unit (older E34s) also called "the sword" because of its look ($140) or the blower series resistance ($30).

Failure syndromes:
• Fan blower not working on position 1,2 or 3,
• Fan blowing in full blast whatever the position of the knob.

First you have to check if you have the cheaper resistance. If you don't find it, go buy a "sword". BMA sells it for less than $140.

Blower series resistance (model manufactured after week 2 of 1990)

Click for bigger picture.

Phillips screwdriver

1. Inside the car, remove the carpeted panel on the left side of the center console.
2. The resistor is almost straight up from the gas pedal, it is a 3 x 3" blue square plug that fits into the heater housing.
3. Pry apart clips and pull the resistance pack out.
4. Installation is reverse of removal.

Final stage before week 2 of 1990- "sword" (Picture from Bill R.)

Phillips screwdriver

On some early E34s (6/88) LHD: you might have a resistor pack, but mounted at the right side (passenger side). So a resistor pack can be mounted left or right, depending on the manufacturer of the heating housing. I went to the local dealer to get a new resistor pack. They told me that it could be 3 kinds of resistor packs, all depending on the manufacturer of the heating house, and not interchangeable. To get the right type of resistor pack, you should know the manufacturer, which could be Siemens, Behr or Valeo. After some searching, I discovered the name of the manufacturer on the heating housing (near the air duct for the back passengers), in my case Valeo.
Information from Henno de Bruin.

1. If you didn't see anything on the driver side, you have a final stage also called "sword".
2. Remove the glove box.
3. Remove the carpeted panel on the right side of the center console.
3. Remove screws holding the plastic cover at the left of the glove box then slide it forward and out.
4. Remove the ventilation air duct screws (behind the glove box) and pull it out.
5. Disconnect all the plugs of the final stage unit, remove the holding screws and pull the "sword" out.
6. Installation is reverse of removal.

Procedure for SWORD repair
You can recondition your sword, component cost is $3.52. You can purchase electronic parts from Mouser electronics (www.mouser.com), stock numbers are listed (no affiliation).

(4) BUZ71A MOSFETS, type TO-220 mouser# 511-STP16NF06 (60v 16A N channel).(old part#: 511-BUZ71A) (thanks to Alun and Mukund)
N-channel, 50V, 13A
(4) 8-32 x 1/4" machine screws
(4) 8-32 x 3/8" machine screws
(12) #8 flat washers
(4) 1/4 x 1/4 bronze threaded standoffs mouser# 534-1692A

1. With the sword out, remove screw from plastic housing on sword handle and remove cover.
2. Remove locnut attaching electrical component from PCB to "wave" plate.
3. Using a hacksaw blade without damaging nearby resistor, cut through epoxy that attaches PCB to wave plate at each MOSFET.
4. Grind epoxy carefully (dremel or bench grinder) on side of PCB opposite wave plate till you hit copper. Three bonding sites should be exposed at each location. Should be able to twist old MOSFETs off wave plate with pliers.
5. Drill 1/16" diameter hole thru PCB as close to each of 12 MOSFET pins as possible.
6. Drill 3/16" diameter throught the swaged-over ends of each standoff. You can now separate the PCB from the wave plate. Careful with the 2-lead component that you unbolted previously.
7. Drill .172 diameter through PCB and wave plate where standoffs went through. Carefully hold each MOSFET in a vise by the edges of the metal tab, and drill it out to .172 also.
8. Bend MOSFET leads 90°, holding leads with pliers at the attached end. Use old MOSFET to determine bend location. Take antistatic precautions (ground yourself) before handling MOSFETs.
9. Assemble 8-32 x 1/4 screws thru PCB, and attach standoffs with loctite.
10. Solder in MOSFET with 25W iron, deflux (mouser# 577-1676-125 12oz aerosol defluxer).
11. Lightly sand the contact patch for the MOSFET on the wave plate. Conductivity is very important. Some people use a special conductive grease under the MOSFET Assemble wave plate to upstands with 3 washers under the head of each 3/8" long screw, or grind screws to correct length - no washers required. Use loctite. Attach your 2-wire component from #2 at this time.
12. Spray plate and PCB (whatever is exposed to oxidation) with Fin-L-Kote UR (577-2104-125 12oz aerosol) or use spray lacquer like I did.

BMW e34 Fusible link

2007-11-20T21:14:00.001-08:00

	Cost: Cheap Difficulty:
Location of the fusible link in a 525i (Thanks to John T) it is a 80Amp not 90Amp.
Bmw E34s have a big fuse right after the battery that protects the car electrical harnesses. Failure syndromes: • Intermittent simultaneous falure of wipers, sunroof, windows, central locking, radio... • No power, like if the battery was dead.
525i Procedure
10mm wrench or socket. New fuses. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Open the fusible link box. 3. Remove the 4 x 10mm screws and change the fusible links. 4. Installation is reverse of removal.
535i Procedure
535i fusible link from Gordon. If the fusible link is ok, check the second fuse box under the rear seat and check the fuse that might be corroded (no. 37, 30 amp) which handles all of the central locking and the electric windows and sunroof. Thanks to Raj K. Note From Ron W. on his 535i: there are TWO fusible links. an 80amp which is in a nice plastic enclosure held by bolts as shown on your site. the one i am talking about is near this one , but it is hidden very well under the heatshrink. this one is rated for 50amps and is part of the cable itself. there is no replaceable link like the 80amp one. i had to drill out the rivets to remove the old one. thisleft me with two opposing ring terminals that i put my fuse in between. this was very difficult to do because of how short the cable was comming through the back seat. The two links are shown on the bentley wiring diagrams, the problem is that it doesnt mention the location of the 50amp link. i called a friend from bmw and he said it was near the battery on his diagrams. i found it by chance. now i admit i did not try to call about a replacement 50amp link, but my friend from bmw said that it was very unlikely since the original was hardwired part of the original cable. The second link in a red wire that parallels the large black wire off the battery. it was hidden underneath two layers of heat shrink. i had to cut it out and replace it with my own retro fit. now i have 12.9 volts to my dme instead of 2. this problem may be of intrest to others. took me two weeks to reslove this issue and i dont think that bmw has a retro fit for this fuse. you would have to buy a whole new battery cable. Fusible link symptoms with good link from Greg R. The electric windows, door locks, and sunroof went out completely. The windshield wipers would only function in high speed and wouldn't park. The problem I had turned out to be the black box under the rear seat forward of the relay module. I found references in a forum saying to check the relay module if it wasn't the fusible link. Well the relay module was good too. The problem was the contacts on the box. I figured it out when I pulled this box out and reinstalled it. I held the window down button and wiggled the box. The window worked intermittently as I wiggled. After cleaning the contacts, all works fine.

BMW e34 LKM & Relay

2007-11-20T21:13:00.003-08:00

	Cost: $5 Difficulty: Time: 30min-1 hour
Procedure and photos courtesy of Max Fretter
This procedure works on the Bmw E34 and E32. If your are loosing your low beans you will have to re-solder the joints on your LKM.The LKM is the lights control module, most important for switching the headlights. Dealer wants $400 to change it. Failure syndromes: - Low beans working intermittently - Intermittent lights and/or intermittent messages from the Check Control display of "TAIL LIGHT" or suchlike on the E34. The Mustard-coloured relay controls the tail/stop light power on early E32 ONLY. New relays seem to be running about $60US... Failure syndromes: - Intermittent lights and/or intermittent messages from the Check Control display of "TAIL LIGHT" or suchlike on E32 only.
Procedure LKM E34/E32:
Good 25+ watt electronics soldering iron Some good electronics-grade solder (comes in rolls like wire) Preferably some prior practice at soldering The LKM has components sensitive to static electricity in it, so some handling care is required. 1. Pull the LKM out of the car. 2. The module changed internal construction around 1992 from the one presented here - this is my 1987 one. The single circuit board for the later module is a little bit different. The part below about finding & resoldeing the contacts for the relays still applies. Notice the four relays? One for each headlight each side... 3. Open the case from the bottom, there are four barbs that overlap the bottom plate from the "can" body; pry them out of the way (some people report good use of old credit cards or similar stiff plastic sheets for this) then the boards slide out. 4. The integrated circuits on the boards appear to be the static sensitive CMOS types, but Hella have painted all the parts with an insulating varnish so they should be OK for some light handling. Basically, try to handle by the edges of the PCB or the connector block when you can... there is no need to touch the chips here anyway. 5. OK, now turn over the unit to see the bottom of the main circuit board (attached to the main connector).

6.What you have to fix is the relay soldering in either bottom corner, for the main relays. Here they are in all theri glory, toe ones on my LKM anyway...
7. When finish, again, carefully reassemble (make sure the two boards engage in the two slots in the case) and reinstall. Test your lights - hopefully the intermittent operation is a fading memory... Jason tried the relays only and it didn't work he said that all solder connections on the thrid of the PC board need to be heated up and new solder added.

Procedure "Mustard" relay: E32 ONLY
1. The Mustard relay has retaining pins engaged in metal clips on the sides facing the wheels - they need to be pried off the pegs on the case of the relay if you can't just wiggle it out. 2. The Mustard relay can be opened by prying it open from the bottom with jewelers' screwdrivers or similar fine flat-bladed screwdrivers. Not the way the printed circuit board comes out - there's a slot in the case it has to come back into on refitting. The mustard relay contains no sensitive electronics - just relays & resistors. Here's what it looks like inside:

3. To fix the unit, you need to re-solder the joints to the relays on the PCB.... note the little moat-like rings on some of the soldering above -that's a probable bad joint, they should all be nice and tent-like without the moat.
More info from Andreas Pretzsch : I've got a BMW 525i (E34) from 05/1988. There seems to be a LKM-B (basic) and a LKM-L (luxury). LKM is the german abbreviation for "Licht Kontroll Modul", the light control modul. The same LKM, at least according to the part number, is in the 750i from 1988. LKM part number (on top of the case): LKM-B 61.35-1 379 372 5 KG 005 175-00 According to the IC manufacturing date (1987 and 1988), I assume it's the original part. Anyway it's a single board, not the one on your pictures. Therefore the construction changed before 1992. Failure was the same, one relay solder point was cracked. To be on the same side, I resoldered all points. Now it works like a charm. LKMs can be found at ebay easily for below 50$, sometimes even 20$. Functional details of the LKM-B: In standby (low beams off), there are 9.8V at the fuse. If you remove the fuse or the bulb, the on-board computer alerts failure. The 9.8V looks like some kind of current limiting circuit (current not checked). When the light is switched on, there are 12V at the fuse and of course at the bulb. In case the relay (or the soldering point) is defective, there are 0V at the fuse and no (!) warning from the on-board computer.
Bayani De Guzman did a creative fix: The e-magnet on the relay was not strong enough to overpower the resistance of the spring. What I ended up doing was switching the relay of the fog lamp (seated next to it) with the low-beam, since that the low beam was more important and always used. For the broken relay, I loosen the tension on the spring to make is less restrictive and now all lights are working again.

BMW e34 Panel lights

2007-11-20T21:13:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $4ea bulb Difficulty: Time: 30min-1 hour

This procedure works on the Bmw E34 and E32. If lights are missiong on your panels... you have to change them. Failure syndromes: - Obvious, panels not as bright in night time.
OBC bulbs replacement procedure:
Hex wrenches and needle noise pliers. New bulbs and Radio code. 1. Make sure you have the code of the radio if you still have the stock Bmw radio. 2. Remove the radio. (It is held by two pentagonal screws, the pentagonal tool is available from your dealer for about $13.00, but a small hex wrench will do)

3. Insert your hand inside the radio opening and locate the OBC lever on the right of the opening, towards the rear. Pull the lever towards you and the OBC will pop out. CAUTION: Right Hand Drive Bmw: PUSH the lever, don't pull...
	4. Now you can see the 3 backlight bulbs. Change them all as you probably don't want to remove for every single bulb. Use needle noise pliers to remove the bulbs. 5. Place the OBC back on and push to get it engaged. Place the radio back on and insert the code.
This is what the bulbs look like (Thanks Hans L.)
Heat control panel bulbs:
1. Remove the radio as described above.
2. Place your hand inside the the radio opening and locate the A/C, rear window heater, recirculation buttons and push it towards the rear of the car.
	3. Disconnect the connector and set the buttons aside. 4. Through the radio opening, push the tabs toward the steering wheel and remove the heat panel far enough to disconnect the heat cables.
5. Pry the cable tabs and set them aside.
	6. Now you can remove the 3 or 4 screws at the back of the panel and gently remove the back cover. You will find one bulb only to light the whole thing. 7. Installation is reverse of removal.
Another procedure from: Stiegl KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE - You'll need it when the job is complete! Replacing the E34 blower fan and temperature control light bulb: - Start by removing the small panel on the left side of the center console next to the radio (I don't remember if this was necessary or not - bad memory). - Open the tiny left and right panels on the outer edges of the radio and using an allen wrench loosen the screws to remove the radio - the allen wrench wont be an exact fit, but if the screws aren't super tight, it should do the job. - Pull the radio straight out after loosening the screws. Disconnect wiring on the back allowing you to remove the radio. - Reach inside the opening where the radio used to be and push out the 'plug' with the defrost/ac/recirc buttons on it. You may have to push down on the inside-top edge of the 'plug' while pushing it out to release it, as there is a spring loaded retainer integrated with the plug. - Disconnect the wires leading to the 'plug' and remove. - On left inside edge of the HVAC panel is a release lever. You should be able to feel it either through the hole where the plug used to be OR you may feel it throught the radio opening - I don't recall whether or not you can actually see the release lever - perhaps if you use a mirror and a flashlight. I would describe the lever as being similar a spring-loaded clothespin - the kind you squeeze to open the 'jaws'. If I remember correctly, the lever stays in the opening and will not come out with the HVAC panel. By opening the jaws, you release the left side of the hvac panel, so youll need to pull the left side of the panel out while holding the jaws open (hope that made sense). - Squeeze the cable release levers in back of the HVAC panel and remove the cables. (you may have to move the levers around to remove cables) - On the right side remove and disconnect the temperature control plug by pulling the black release handle straight back, now pull the plug out. - Remove the other electrical connectors on the back of panel. Using a small bladed screwdriver, release the back HVAC panel by depressing the 4 tabs and carefully prying the panel out. Now remove the old bulb and replace it with your new bulb. Your now half done. Now push the back panel back on carefully and reconnect the wiring plugs. Put the rest of the switches, plugs, panels, etc back in and your done. Radio Bulbs from Ricky J When I got my '90 535 this summer the radio/CD changer was a mess. There was no LCD illumination, one or two CD's worked out of the six, and every bump I went over interupted the changer. I thought a new head unit, changer, $500 and jerking the seats out again would cure it, but I tried to fix it first. LCD - The LCD has three small bulbs behind it. I replaced them, and the display is as good as new! After pulling the top off the radio, pull out the cassette player. Remove the front. Remove the LCD board. Unsolder the 4 LCD mounting clips. VOILA, there are the three bulbs. I used three Radio Shack bulbs from radioshack.com Cat 90-2614 Lamp 680:T-1 (wire terminals)for $1.11 each. Solder in the new bulbs. I should not have done it myself, because the microsoldering was tough. A good radioshop would do a better job. CHANGER SKIPPING - When I pulled out the changer, I noticed a 10/90 date on my 4/90 car. There were two inline fuses. The CD changer was added after the car was sold. I found the shipping screws still locking the changer frame to the "floating" guts. Needless to say, the fix was cheap. CHANGER NOT PLAYING - I pulled the casing off the changer, and flipped up the bottom board. I slid the head-lazer unit over so the glass was visible from the bottom. I cleaned the glass with a Q-tip. The changer now works on 90% of the CD's I put in.

BMW e34 Remote reprog.

2007-11-20T21:12:00.004-08:00

Newer Bmw E34s have a remote to lock unlock the doors and for the alarm. If you buy a new remote, you will have to program it. The dealer charges $115.00 to reprogram the remote. 3 buttons remote p/n: 88-88-1-600-292 It should also work for the older same looking remote p/n: 82-11-1-467-015.
Procedure
Phillips screwdriver. New remote. 1. Remove the rear seat bottom section. You will see an alpine alarm box located on the driver side. 2. Remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the box over and you will see an access door. 3. Open the door carefully: you will see a small black button and a small slot where the remote chip (eprom) is placed. 4. Remove the 2 Phillips head screws from your remote fob. You will see a small circuit board, a battery ad a chip. This looks like a very small ram chip on a PC. Carefully remove the chip from the remote and plug it into the empty chip slot on the alpine alarm box. 5. Put your key in the ignition and turn it to the 1st accessory position (Do not start the car). Go back to the alpine alarm box and hold the black button down for 10 seconds. Remove your key from the ignition. 6. Remove the chip from the alpine alarm box and put it back into the remote fob. 7. Re-mount the alarm box and seat bottom. This is it. Alternate Procedure from Steward E. 1. Open the remote by removing the two screws and flip the cover open. If the battery comes out of it's position, make sure you put it back with + facing the correct side. 2. Remove the chip that is to be programmed. It has a white label with a serial number on it. The chip might come out easily, or you might have to use a small screwdriver to open the socket. The small plastic socket has a front end that can slide out if you pry gently with a small screw driver. This will make it easier to remove the chip. 3. Remove the back seat of the car (because the alarm unit is under it). The seat cushion is removed by locating the securing clamps, one on each side, roughly in the middle behind the front seat and at the lower end on the front of the back seat. Once you've located the clamp (you can feel where it is, but you can't see it), grab the lower end of the back seat at that point and pull hard up. 4. The alarm will be under the beck seat behind the driver's seat. Use a 7mm wrench to loosen the two screws on the bracket in front of the alarm. When the alarm is loose, turn it upside down. Open the small plastic panel. Now you will see a socket identical to the one in the remote. Insert the chip in this socket. Be careful and make sure it is inserted correctly. Turn on the ignition on the car. Go back and press the small button to the upper left corner of the chip you just installed. Hold the button down for just a few seconds. 5. Turn off the car's ignition, remove the chip and install it into the remote. The remote should now work. 6. Install the alarm unit and back seat and you're all set.

BMW e34 Harness replacement

2007-11-20T21:12:00.003-08:00

	Cost: $10 Difficulty:
Procedure and photos courtesy of Bill Sours
Touring hatchback harness seems to attract electrical gremlins.
Procedure. More info in the PDF File from Scott Hersted.
Check F44 fuse under the rear seat. There's a relay behind the RH rear interior trim on the rear of the wheel well. wht/blu wire to pin 3 is power in from window switch, and red/blu wire at pin 2 is power out to window motor. If you can get power to the red/blu wire you maybe able to open the window. This wire should also be available at the hinge point on the gate side. Red wire with blue stripe, is in LH side harness. You will have to cut into the harness on the gate side of the hinge point and find the red/blu wire and apply power. This bypasses the switch and relay. Since your problem may be the switch, the relay, or the latch motor instead of wiring I would check these first. 1. Check with a multi-meter at the red/blu wire both sides of the hinge point while operating the window switch. If it is wiring you will have power car side of hinge point only. If neither proceed to; 2. Switch wiring is wht/grn/yel (mine was wht/blk/yel, the yel is bands) input (hot all the time) and wht/blu out (hot with switch made) these are in the RH harness. These are okay if you have power in the first step. Now, first problem is that the main cover over the inside of tail gate has one screw that's under the window latch cover, window must be open to get to it. By the way Bentley's is a help, but not here as it doesn't show how to get the inner cover off the gate. If you can get the glass up, pry off the black latch cover see picture 7A #12, and remove the 1 screw (pic. 8A #13) to the right of center holding the interior cover. To remove the inner cover, raise the gate, open the tool tray, unfasten the tool tray straps (pic.3A #8). When the tool tray moves down pass the strap limits, it will come out (off the gate). Around the edge of the tool tray opening, there are some small (1/2" x 3/4")(pic. 3A #9) plastic plugs, use a small thin screw driver or point of a knife to pry them out. There are retainer nuts under these plugs. Inside the tool tray well there are 4 plug retainers (pic 5A #10) at the back edge, these are removed by lifting the centers (pic 16A) out until the plugs can be removed, the centers spread (swell) the outer plug to make them stay put. Now you will have 2 plastic flanged nuts, in some cars these are plastic screws, (pic 5A #11)in the tool well, and the 1 screw under the glass latch cover if you couldn't open the glass, plus a few stab-in clips, that are not visible, holding the interior cover on. You can remove the 2 flange nuts and pry the cover away from the gate. You will now have access to all the wire connections, latch and lock switches and motors. Gate side harness covers are held by 3 screws, 2 under bumpers for the window (pic 9A #14) and 1 plastic screw on the side(pic 10A #15). Small cover above the harness grommet has a snap in button(pic 13A #16) pry in loose. In picture 13A #17 is the defroster cable grommet, you will reuse this. On the gate side there is a positioner for the harness, move the harness aside and you will find two screws (pic 14A #18), this also has a cover that snaps on (#19), remove it. On the gateway side the molding has to be removed. 1. Remove the trim strip across the thresh hole (pic 2A #4 screws and #7 retainer plugs). 2. Side molding is held by 2 screws and the weather striping (pic 1A #3 and #2 is screw under cover in tie down D ring) 3. Pull molding out from under weather striping. Harness replacement; BMW has one for left (PN# 61-10-8-365-704) and right (PN# 61-10-8-365-702)(pic 1A #1). They basically have 2 ends. One end is all the connectors (license plate light, reverse light, window micro switch, etc.) and washer tubing for the rear jet in the RH harness. They also have the 2 connectors for the rear window heater. The other end of the harness is cut wires that get spliced into the old harness. I matched all the wires and made sure they all were the right color. Everything matched except for there is only 9 wires(RH harness) in the old harness and 10 in the new one. The extra wire (yellow/white) went to the taillight. It must be for cars equipped with rear fog lights. Be sure to match wires as some cars have different color coding, you can match these with the connectors of the old harness. Before disconnecting the battery; Remove the washer jet before starting the wiring job. You will need 2 squeeze clamps (PN# 16-13-1-379-229). With the jet held up you can unscrew the cap and remove the jet to get to the hose. The other end of the hose can be disconnected at the pump (pic 1A #6). I disconnected the battery and verified were I would cut the harness(RH side). It has to be cut after the rear washer motor connector and the right outer taillight connector. The 2 connectors for the heated rear window have there own grommet that slides into a hole provided in the harness/washer tube grommet that seals against the body. In order to get the 2 connectors through this hole you may have to push the metal pin out of the plastic connector. There is a lock tab that has to be removed first and then you have to carefully push the pin out. BMW has a special tool for removing pins. Put the wires though and then reinstall on the connectors. I was able to work them through one at a time without removing the insulator. I pulled the harness up through the hole were the harness enters the body (gate end) and cut the harness there and pulled it back down (tie a length of cord on the old harness at the cut point). This gave me another foot or so length to pull the harness into a better work area. It also gave me extra room in case I had to cut it again if I messed it up. I then disconnected the connectors in the hatch area and pulled out the old harness. I ran the new harness, plugged everything in and ran the new wiring and washer tubing out the hatch, down the side of the window, into and down the body(pulled back thru with the cord). Make sure you are on the correct side of the hatch shock. I'm now ready to join the new and old wire harnesses. I used butt splices, however they can be soldered. If soldered be sure to use heat shrink-wrap slid over the wires before soldering. The LH harness is the same procedure, more wires and no hose. Reconnect the battery and check that everything works, before closing up! Since I now have another foot of harness I just tucked it behind the trim panel that covers the washer tank after wrapping it. Now reassemble the car.

BMW e34 R134a retrofit

2007-11-20T21:12:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $100-150 with gauge Difficulty: Time: 1 - 5 hours

If your air conditioning in your Bmw E34/E32 currently uses R12 and requires repairs or needs a full refill, you might want to consider converting it to R134 (this is much less expensive than R12).The upgrade requires no more than a new receiver drier, valve adapter, O'rings and a couple of hours labor. If your compressor is not R134 compliant you will have to change it. Drop In: Lots of different companies sell "drop in" replacement for R12. Lots of people don't recommend it because no AC service center will service your system and "drop ins" are not compatible with anything. R134 drawbacks: The only drawback of R134 is that the cooling efficiency is not as good as R12, but I am pretty sure that you will not notice it (except if you live in the Death Valley). Molecule of R134a are smaller and there for more prone to leakage...
Procedure
The first thing to do is to check if you have an R134a compatible compressor. Go see the koalamotorsport web page about AC conversion to check your compressor part number. Buy the BMW AC retrofit kit (part# 82 31 9 067 396) or all the components needed for the retrofit or repair. BMW Retrofit kits include a new receiver drier, capacity label, the low pressure switch, valve adapters and O rings. If you change your compressor, check if it is already filled with the right quantity of PAG lubricant. 1. Have a SHOP (not in the driveway) remove the R12 left in the system, don't open it to the atmosphere PLEASE DON'T! 2. Place the new pressure switch included in the kit onto the receiver/drier. 3. Replace the old receiver drier with the new unit with the new pressure switch. (Don't forget to change the O'rings). If you have a E34 built before 2/1989, you have 3 switches and 6 wires on your old drier. One switch has two wires with two spade terminals connected to it. You will have to cut those two spades, splice the wire ends and solder those two wires together. Then connect the two black and two white connectors together. 4. If you don't change your compressor, remove it and empty the oil out of it, then refill it with new PAG oil. 5. At this point, you should flush the lines to remove oil and contaminants. (Don't flush the compressor or drier). The rubber lines should be changed for barrier hoses also.

3. Install the new port quick-disconnect adapters to the lines. The larger red one goes onto the high pressure side (line from the condenser through the sight glass to the expansion valve). The smaller blue one goes onto the low pressure side (line from the evaporator to the compressor inlet). With the aftermaket one I bought (I am still kicking myself) I had to remove the little thingy inside the car's ac connectors.
4. Have a A/C shop draw vacuum for 40 min minimum to remove the moisture and ask them to perform a leak test. Charge the system with R134a refrigerant. If like me you didn't buy the Bmw kit, buy the new capacity R134a label 8-363-255-9

Refill procedure in the driveway
1. Make sure that the drier is new, and that the compressor is R134a compatible. 2. Connect the hoses of the gauge set to the right ports, the yellow one going to the vacuum pump.
	3. Open all the taps and draw a vacuum for at least 40min. 4. After the vacuum, close all the taps of the gauge set and remove the vacuum pump. Let it sit and monitor that the system hold the vacuum (no leaks)
The right procedure is to pressurize the system with nitrogen up to 50Psi, check for leaks with soap bubble solution (soapy water will do) on all the fittings and connections. If no leaks are found, vent the nitrogen out then connect the vacuum pump. Vacuum for 1 hour min, pressurize with nitrogen up to 10Psi then vacuum for 2 hours, repeat one more time for triple evacuation.
5. Without starting the engine, connect your first can of freon to the yellow hose, then open all the taps. Don't turn the can upside down as the compressor doesn't like to pump liquid, and might break.
	6. Go get some very warm water in a pan. When the first can is empty close all the taps, REMOVE THE RED CONNECTOR, if you don't, the can will explode, connect another can, open the blue taps then start the engine with A/C on and high speed fan. 7. Place the can in the warm water as it will increase the pressure inside and will empty faster, switch cans until you empty all four and a half 12oz cans. As the water cool down, change it.
If you don't have a gauge set and charge the system, keep in mind that you don't want air to go inside the system. You will have to pierce the can with the tap on top of it then connect the hose to your system while some freon will exit the can. While you are at it, check that your engine in not overheating and that the A/C fan is working in both speed.

BMW e34 OBC retrofit

2007-11-20T21:11:00.001-08:00

	Cost: $100? Difficulty: Time: 3 hours
Procedure courtesy of Damian Bannon
If your BMW E34 came from the factory with either an analogue clock or a digital clock/outside temperature combo it is possible to upgrade to the full On Board Computer (OBC). The clock units use the same connector as the OBC and all the wiring is already in place. Cars that had only an analogue clock do not have the outside temperature sensor mounted, so this function will not work, but all the other signals come from the ECU. Cars that have the instrument cluster with no check control will most likely have no gong so the OBC will stay quiet about ice and speed limit warnings and give a visual warning only. All other functions should work as expected - including the CODE start blocking!
Part numbers:
The first step is to find an OBC unit - These can be got from the stealer (P/N 65 81 8 351 055) but are big $$$ so the best bet is to find a used one from a breaker's yard or similar. An OBC from any BMW E34 model will do - even a BMW E32 OBC will work but as the 7 series has a bigger petrol tank some calculations such as 'range' may be incorrect. Other parts you may want to get are the turn-signal switch which has the OBC remote control on the tip and the new radio/OBC holder. The OBC will work fine without installing the new turn-signal switch and will still blend its notifications into the check control display. The mounting frame (holds together the clock or OBC as well as the radio and heater control module) differs for OBC vs clock equipped cars as the slot for the OBC is deeper than that for the clock, the OBC is approx. double the depth of the clock and the connector is located higher than on the clock. It is possible to cut away the plastic at the back of where the clock sat to allow the OBC fit but the ideal way is to replace the mounting frame. The part numbers for the two frames are: Holder radio/OBC 65 81 1 384 121 Holder radio/clock 65 81 1 384 141 Note from David, modified by Durham, Paul L (UK): The e34's have 2 different types of OBC one for the BMW 518i,520i and a different type for the BMW 525i,530i,535i,540i. There are two types of OBC but you can fit ANY OBC IV (without the coding plug socket) into a 518 or 520 with a little modification. I successfully retro-fitted an OBC IV (with GONG and Temp Sensor) into my 1995 520SEi where the OBC DID NOT have the coding plug socket in it and it's fully operational. All the OBC IV's out of higher spec cars eg.525, 535, etc (without coding plug socket's) are technically dumb on their own as they have no information about the car's engine type, etc. This means you go to BMW (like i did) and buy a coding plug for £20 (UK). BMW need to know Year, Model, Petrol or Deisel, Plastic or Metal Fuel Tank so that the coding plug has the correct calculation's for your engine, eg. MPG,etc. You then take the coding plug apart so your left with a mini PCB. You then open your OBC and solder the mini PCB onto the back of your OBC. It's only 6 pins and is super easy to do. Your OBC will now know what your car is (NO PPPP ERROR) ! The info on how to do this is in this PDF File here : http://gunnar525.de/schraubereien/bc4_umbau_codierstecker.pdf It's in German but the pics are easy to follow. Once you get past this stage you can then carry on with the retro-fit.
Procedure
Second step is to remove your old clock - To do this, remove the radio and the radio's mounting case and then reach inside the vacant radio slot at the side next to the clock, at the top you should feel a little lever (position marked by red dot on remove_clock.jpg) which you need to press (push it towards the engine) and the mechanism should make the clock move out towards you and you can then pull it out the rest of the way with your fingers. The third step is to try the OBC to see if it works - The connector is clipped into the back of the mounting frame, unclip this and pull it out a bit (there should be an inch or two give in the wiring) and then plug it into the back of the OBC. Turn the ignition on and see if the OBC comes to life. Clock removed If the OBC doesn't come up the next step is to figure out why. The list of connections is given in the table below so start by checking that there is +12v at pins 6, 8, 9 & 17. The most likely culprit is pin 17 as there will be no power to this if your car doesn't have the auxiliary horn relay installed and without power at pin 17 the OBC will play completely dead. If there is no power at pin 17 an easy solution is to cut the red-grey-yellow wire that goes to pin 17, cut it as far from the connector as possible to make life easier, and join this to the red-yellow (red with a yellow stripe, there's also a yellow wire with a red stripe!) wire that provides power to pin 9. You could join these via a 5 or 10 amp fuse if you prefer and it may be no harm to tape off the end of the red-grey-yellow wire coming from the car so it can't cause any problems. Digital clock/temperature indicator --- pin4: ground pin5: blue/red/yellow, temp sensor pin8: + from fuse F1 pin9: + from fuse F20 pin18: white/blue, chimes pin19: white/red, chimes pin22: grey/red, light switch OBC --- pin1: violet/green/yellow, alarm system pin10: black/green, starter pin6: + from fuse F17 pin9: + from fuse F20 (red/yellow) pin8: + from fuse F1 pin22: grey/red, light switch pin25: yellow/red, turn signal switch pin3: white/yellow, diagnostics pin16: white/violet, diagnostics pin14: white/grey, instrument cluster pin7: black/white, instrument cluster pin4: ground pin5: blue/red/yellow, temp sensor pin20: black/red/yellow, pre-ventilation pin21: black/white, pre-ventilation pin23: violet/white/yellow, alarm system pin17: red/grey/yellow, alarm system pin26: black/red/yellow, fuel tank level sensor pin12: brown/violet, fuel tank level sensor pin11: white/black, DME pin24: black/violet, DME pin19: white/red, chimes pin18: white/blue, chimes pin15: white/brown, radio pin2: blue/brown/yellow, radio Once the OBC is working, the next step is make it fit properly - You can either replace the mounting frame with the one designed to hold the OBC or alternatively you can cut away the plastic at the back of the original mounting frame (This can even be done without removing the mounting frame if you are careful by using a suitable saw from the front) so that the OBC will slide in all the way until the front of it is flush with the console. Next, you need to set the country setting for language, miles/km, C/F and l/100Km / Km/l. - To do this you need to access the OBC test menu by simultaneously pressing the 1000 and 10 keys so that the display changes to "TEST". With the 10 & 1 keys enter 11 on the display and then press the S/R button. "0 LAND" should now be on the display and you can alter this by using the 1000 & 100 keys and the S/R to save. The settings are from "0 LAND" to "9 LAND" and through trial and error you should be able to find the setting that is best for you. Also, some settings use US gallons while others use European gallons so take that into account. If the OBC appears to be reporting inaccurate fuel consumption figures it can be calibrated to give the correct values. - Fill the fuel tank to the maximum and reset the trip counter and one of the OBC's average fuel consumption monitors. Run the fuel tank nearly empty and fill the fuel tank again to the maximum. The amount of fuel it now takes to fill the tank is the amount used to cover the distance recorded on the trip meter so, from this, work out the actual fuel consumption of the car and then compare this to what the OBC reported as the average fuel consumption. If these two average fuel consumption figures are not exactly the same then you need to calibrate the OBC by entering a new correction factor. The fuel consumption correction factor is a locked function of the OBC so before you can access it, you must first unlock the OBC - Access the OBC test menu by simultaneously pressing the 1000 and 10 keys so that the display changes to "TEST". With the 10 & 1 keys enter 19 on the display and then press the S/R button. Add the current day and month (as it is known to the OBC) and enter this value and then press the S/R button, the OBC should now be unlocked. To access the fuel consumption calibration factor you once more need to simultaneously press the 1000 and 10 keys so that the display changes to "TEST". With the 10 & 1 keys enter 20 (Be careful not to enter 21 as this will reset the OBC) on the display and then press the S/R button - you should now see something like 1000 CORR, this is your current correction factor. To calculate your new correction factor use the following: new_correction_factor = old_correction_factor * actual_mpg / obc_mpg Enter your new correction factor into the OBC using the 1000/100/10/1 keys and then press the S/R button. If you want to relock the OBC - enter function 19 again then press the C/F button to lock. Much of the information contained above came from internet posts by: Priit Varik, Mark M and Al and from http://home.iae.nl/users/bts/obc.htm More info from Mark about temperature sensor: I have a 1990 E34 525iA SE (UK spec) that was originally fitted with an analogue clock. Following your instructions I removed the clock and fitted a used OBC. This worked fine, but had the annoying problem of sounding the gong every time the ignition was switched on due to the external temperature sensor not being fitted. Well, after a while this just because too much, to after some investigation I found that the wiring harness for the temperature sensor was indeed fitted to the car. It was located behind the radiator in the same place where the horn is mounted, i.e. in the centre of the car, behind the grill in between the lights. The wiring harness was coiled up and clipped out of the way. Once I had released the clip, it was then just a simple case of plugging in my new temperature sensor to the harness and it worked first time. I did try to route the sensor somewhere away from the radiator so it would measure the external temperature, not the radiator temperature ! The only trick that the old girl had left was that it seems to take a few hours for the OBC to register the correct temperature. It crept slowly up from -39oC to the correct outside temperature. I'm assuming that there must be some kind of digital or analogue filter on the system that has a very large time constant. Anyway, once it had reached correct temperature it seems to operate correctly, agreeing with roadside temperature signs. More temperature sensor from Mark A. I finally got bored with the display telling me it was -34 outside, so I ordered the temp sensor from BMW main dealer for only 17 pounds UK. Took the front off the car & spent hours searching for the magic wire to connect it up. Needless to say, it wasn't there. It would seem that mine (94 525 European spec) didn't have it fitted. The solution is to run a wire from one side of the sensor to earth (ground) & the other one thru the car & splice it in to pin 5. All now works ok. Just thought this may be useful to anyone else doing the retrofit & thinking they're going mad as the cant find the missing wire. More info from Andy: The OBC will chime every time you turn on the ignition and give you a -34 degrees warning if you don't have or fit a temperature sensor. I thought mine had a fault until I searched a few sites. More info from Martin M. The user should check the wiring loom into the back of the clock. If it has a 'bunch' of wires then your ok, if it contains only three wires (as is the case withe my E34) then it is not possible. More info from Tom Bosman: Having just retrofitted an OBC to an 89 525i (thanks to your notes) I would like to pass on a little additional info re a problem I encountered. As part of the retrofit I also purchased an indicator stalk (turn signal) with switch. When I pulled the old one out and compared it with the new one there were a few differences (besides the extra wires for switch). The old switch had a relay attached to the 12 pin plug which strangely had no output. One of the wires of this relay was on the same pin as the yellow/red wire on the new switch which operates the dash display from OBC. After trying the switch as is and it not working I then wired it up the same as the old switch and then had a yellow/red wire floating free. After some further investigation I discovered another connector under the socket for indicator stalk connection which had a yellow/red. I traced this wire back to pin 25 of OBC which is the trigger for dash display. After connecting my spare yellow/red to this the dash display now worked. I also discovered that the relay with no output was merely connected to the flasher to make it audible. Without the relay the flashers worked perfectly but were silent. Hope this can be of help to some others who have trouble with indicator stalk switch.